Happy 5th Birthday Estethica

Image courtesy of the BFC, depicting Livia Firth wearing From Somewhere and Laura Bailey wearing Henrietta Ludgate.

An initiative very close to my heart is the BFC's Estethica, which on Tuesday night celebrated its fifth birthday. Whilst I couldn’t attend the event in the end I’d still like to show my appreciation of this great platform.

Estethica was founded in 2006 showcasing 13 brands, and has since gone on to support a total of 108 international designers. All Estethica designers have been selected as they adhere to at least one of the three Estethica principles of fair-trade, ethical practices, organic and recycled materials and are selected for both their ethical credentials and design excellence.

Among those celebrating the landmark were chair of the BFC Harold Tillman, Livia Firth, Laura Bailey and Lucy Siegle.

Harold Tillman CBE commented:“This anniversary of Estethica marks an important milestone for the initiative and also for the fashion industry. Each season we see Estethica grow to support designers in new and exciting ways, thereby placing sustainable values at the forefront of fashion design. This is a chance to celebrate Estethica’s achievements and look forward to future ventures in promoting sustainable fashion”.

Livia Firth said: “Estethica is where it all began for me – it taught me to look at the politics and the production of fashion in a different way. With such talented designers I can only see Estethica getting bigger and better”.

Art-iculate: Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty

An exhibition on the other side of the pond that I’ve long been looking forward to both hearing and writing about finally opened on Wednesday; Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, which comprises the spring 2011 Costume Institute exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Alexander McQueen (British, 1969-2010). Dress, autumn/winter 2010. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph © Sølve Sundsbø / Art + Commerce

Celebrating McQueen’s career and design highlights, this retrospective of sorts spans from his Central Saint Martins postgraduate collection of 1992 - infamously snapped up by Isabella Blow - to his final catwalk presentation, which took place in Paris shortly after his death in February 2010. Paying particular attention to McQueen’s superior understanding of fashion beyond utility, this exhibition seeks to highlight his conceptual expression of culture, politics, and identity – which earned him international acclaim and reverence.

Alexander McQueen (British, 1969-2010). Ensemble, Plato’s Atlantis, spring/summer 2010. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph © Sølve Sundsbø / Art + Commerce

Located in the Metropolitan Museum’s second-floor Cantor Galleries, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty features approximately 100 ensembles and 70 accessories from McQueen’s prolific 19-year career. Borrowed primarily from the Alexander McQueen Archive here in London - a few select pieces from the Givenchy Archive in Paris are also included as well as covetable pieces held in private collections – stand-out pieces include the bumster trousers, the kimono jacket, and the three-point “origami” frock coat.

Gallery View – Romantic Nationalism, Highland Rape. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Much loved for his referencing of late 19th Century silhouettes and the odd 1950’s-inspired piece, McQueen’s technical ingenuity was his currency, earning him four awards as the British Fashion Council’s ‘Designer of the Year’ in 1996, 1997, 2001 and lastly in 2003. With no current plans to send this eagerly anticipated exhibition on tour, I defy anyone visiting New York before 31st July not to visit.

Fresh From The Production Line: Fairtrade Collective

Fairtrade Collective stand at Estethica

As always visiting the British Fashion Council’s Estethica exhibition during LFW is an eye-opening experience, guaranteed to uncover the newest brands and initiatives promoting fair-trade as a global multi-faceted concept, and in this case, sustainable fashion. This season proved to be no different with the Fairtrade Foundation introducing the Fairtrade Collective; uniting the Fairtrade Foundation with producers, designers and ASOS to make a big impact on fashion as we know it.

Design by Julie Verhoeven

Teaming up with 14 designers including - one of my favourites - Julie Verhoeven, Holly Fulton, Ada Zanditon, London Undercover, Tim Soar and Marios Schwab to name but a few, Fairtrade Collective has created a bespoke range of highly exquisite and desirable scarves - for both men and women - made from fair-trade certified cotton, sold exclusively by influential fashion e-tailer and market leader, ASOS.

Design by London Undercover

Using only the finest in digital printing techniques, each scarf bears the handwriting of its designer, acting like a signed piece of art – which will hopefully exude the same ‘priceless’ qualities. Choosing a combination of the established old guard and a staple of new generation talent, each designer has created a unique scarf that is on-trend for the forthcoming season and screams luxury.

Design by Tim Soar

Available from ASOS since the end of February to mark Fairtrade Fortnight (28 February - 13 March), each scarf purchased will come packaged in a beautiful draw-string bag made from fair-trade certified cotton repeating the same fabric choice and design of the scarf itself, cleverly maximising its longevity.

Design by Holly Fulton

On her involvement with the Fairtrade Foundation, Holly Fulton says: “It’s vital to utilize cotton in a modern fashion through strong design. Hopefully projects such as this will encourage that; I certainly look at fair-trade in a different light now.”

LFW Diary AW11: Osman

Imagery throughout courtesy of Catwalking

One of my all-time favourite designers, whom I think of as the king of respectable hemlines, it was an absolute pleasure to attend Osman Yousefzada’s AW11 catwalk show last Sunday afternoon. My first to witness in person, the atmosphere was electric inside the BFC tent. On superb form as one would expect, the audience were treated to Osman’s signature architectural cuts, once again emphatically demonstrating why he is the go-to designer for the discerning modern woman.

Deriving inspiration from the 2002 Turner Prize nominated artist Catherine Yass’s recent series of light-boxes titled Decommissioned, Osman infused the deep blue slick of colour used in this series as the starting point for his AW11 collection. Taking his minimal-luxe aesthetic one step further, trademark silhouettes were present throughout the collection in a combination of textured winter fabrics such as cashmere, quilted brocade - which looked a lot like quilted seersucker from where I was sat - matelasse, nappa leather and alpaca wool.

With capes and floor-sweeping coats featuring heavily, it was the softly structured dresses that really stood out, deftly utilising the zip detailing present throughout the collection to transform the garments into multi-functional pieces – enabling them to be converted into separates of differing lengths, further enhancing this truly versatile collection. Demonstrating a mild foray into print, the rich colour palette consisted of fuchsia pinks, strong oranges, bright aquas and vivid greens blocked with cream – perfectly styled to compliment Osman’s signature shade of blue. Clean lines and fitted bodices sat atop impeccably tailored trousers and soft bell-shaped skirts, culminating in a range of sharply tailored and elegantly draped separates, chic enough to be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.

Key garments included a cute panelled calf-length A-line skirt in peach sorbet and a variety of tops which were finished with thick bands of leather in fluorescent greens and pinks to accentuate the waist, also repeated on elegant strapless dresses. With spat detail peep-toes complimenting the collection perfectly, heels were - perhaps predictably - on the chunky side, with stacked-heel loafers making an appearance in what looked to be the softest of leathers and pony skin. Adding to the drama of the occasion, models wore sharp black bobbed wigs - bearing close resemblance to Victoria Beckham’s now infamous 'Pob' - hinting that this could once again become the must-have hair cut of the season.

In sum, a timeless and classically beautiful collection from Osman that will once again see his stock rise further on the trajectory to fashion infamy.

LFW Diary AW11: Jean-Pierre Braganza

Images throughout courtesy of Catwalking

On Friday afternoon I attended my first show at the new show space at the Chester Boyd venue, 8 Northumberland Avenue. Held in the main ballroom, the space was completely packed to the rafters even though it’s one of the biggest, with the exception of the central BFC show space. A former - albeit brief - lecturer at my university, this is the first season I’ve got into a Jean-Pierre Braganza show and had the opportunity to fully experience his design aesthetic in both mens and womenswear.

Entitled Positronyx, Braganza’s AW11 offering is a ‘cultivated collection for a woman who is a leader and a warrior’. Influenced by Science Fiction, Braganza’s heroines are fresh from the future, where dark uniforms are de rigueur for a more abstruse time when identity, security and societal controls are paramount.

With military tailoring denoting discipline and loyalty, shapes were contrasted between deconstructed and restricted. Motorcycle leather played a leading role - in the forms of crushed, nubuck and gloss - juxtaposed with suede, sheer silk and fur to create an array of futuristically sexy looks. Body-con was turned on its head with loose fitting knitted dresses, while embroidery, stud detailing and complex panelling played to Braganza’s strengths.

Bright splashes of fire red and cream cooled the heavily dark black and charcoal collection, adding another dimension to Braganza’s trademark strict femininity. Make-up by Terry Barber and the MAC PRO team was dramatic, with models heavily rouged up to the temples in what I’d call a ‘Mayday look’, made famous by the heroine that is Grace Jones. Gloves by Aspinal of London and footwear by Nicholas Kirkwood really added to this exquisite showcase.

LFW Diary AW11: Caroline Charles

For the second season on the trot, today I was bowled over by Caroline Charles' trademark chic. With a soundtrack of what I can only describe as ‘church music’, models trotted down the newly-christened BFC flat catwalk in a mixture of brown, black and green bowler and fedora hats which were given a welcome androgynous twist when paired with a combination of bow and skinny ties.

Reminiscent of the post-war mood of the 40's, Charles' trademark earthy tweed was out in full force, revamped in the form of elegant box-pleated shift dresses and an assortment of jackets all beautifully cinched at the waist with a variety of narrow leather belts and ribbon ties. Fittingly Emilia Fox was the only celebrity I spotted in the front row, dutifully representing the traditional English rose, embodied by Caroline Charles label.

Glamour and sophistication personified, evening gowns and cocktail dresses glittered in jewel and sequin encrusted blacks and greys, with luxurious velvet trimmings and opulent slender leather elbow gloves to complete the looks. With sexy leopard prints present on silks and wool mix coats, there was something for every age group, with the overall aesthetic offering understated grown-up glamour in the hottest autumnal shades.

British Fashion Awards

*From left to right: Naomi Campbell, Nicola Formichetti and Lara Stone

Last night in the splendor of the newly re-opened Savoy Hotel the British Fashion Council hosted the 2010 British Fashion Awards. The 12 awards were presented to:

EMERGING TALENT AWARD – ACCESSORIES: Husam El Odeh
EMERGING TALENT AWARD - READY TO WEAR: Meadham Kirchhoff
DESIGNER BRAND: Mulberry
MODEL: Lara Stone
ACCESSORY DESIGNER: Nicholas Kirkwood
MENSWEAR DESIGNER: Patrick Grant for E. Tautz
BFC OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION DESIGN: Lee Alexander McQueen
BRITISH STYLE: Alexa Chung
ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR: Nicola Formichetti
DESIGNER OF THE YEAR: Phoebe Philo for Celine
SPECIAL RECOGNITION AWARD: Naomi Campbell
DIGITAL INNOVATION AWARD: Burberry

*From left to right: Emma Hill of Mulberry, Meadham Kirchhoff and Phoebe Philo

I'm particularly happy that Phoebe Philo won designer of the year for Celine as she is one of my favourite designers whom I've loved since she worked under Stella McCartney at Chloe in the late '90s. Also pleased to see Formichetti pick up a gong.
*Images throughout courtesy of Billa Baldwin

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Estethica Exhibition

Founded over four years ago by the BFC, each season the Esthethica exhibition is a highlight on my LFW schedule and this time round I attended the champagne brunch. It was really nice to see designers whom I've worked with previously: Henrietta Ludgate, Lu Flux and Little Glass Clementine for a catch-up, whilst also discovering some cool new brands such as Michelle Lowe-Holder (below), Max Jenny and She Died Of Beauty.  

 Partimi is one of those labels I absolutely love when I see it at exhibitions and press days and stupidly forget about until I next see it, kicking myself for missing out on owning a piece from the previous collection. Entitled Dieu Bleu, founder/designer Eleanor Dorrien-Smith's SS11 offering is designed in homage to costumes her grandmother collected from a 1969 Sotheby's sale of Diaghilev's Ballet Russes costumes.

 It was great to see a sneak peak of Ada's superb SS11 collection; The Pyramora before the fashion show took place later in the week (read my review). Up-close Zanditon's geometric shapes were concise and meticulously constructed, her colour palette and textures rich and strong.

 

 Among the many labels exhibiting were supermodel Lily Cole, Isobel Davies (of Izzy Lane), Katherine Poulton and Alice Ashby's brand, The North Circular, who had some really great chunky knitwear.  

What I love most about Little Glass Clementine is how each of her pieces is entirely unique, weaving together the precious and the discarded, encouraging clients to contribute objects that hold special memories. An environmental activist and jeweller Clementine James recycles and remakes jewellery in the hope of retelling a story. I am a huge fan of Clementine and think her pieces are an exquisite fusion of past and present treasures, juxtaposed with found objects such as pebbles creating dramatic ruffs and statement pieces.

 Always a firm favourite Scottish Luxury Textile label Henrietta Ludgate was really impressive. I loved her departure from linen, utilising beautiful fabrics and cuts to create an eye-popping collection that for me at least, had a 60's romance to it. My favourite garment was the navy blue coat modelled for me below. I love the quilting, the patching and the cord trim - another item for my wish list.

The next designer I caught was the lovely Lu Flux whose collections I adore and this season I really like the menswear too and can really see myself in the jacket (above left) and the shorts (below).

 Nestled between two rooms was She Died Of Beauty, the ethical and organically produced label founded by Supermodel Erin O'Connor and Kate Halfpenny which produces printed bags and t-shirts.

 Last of all I spotted Max Jenny who creates abstractedly printed waterproof jackets that are pretty cool and would definitely aid your discovery if lost on a mountainside.

LFW SS11 Diary: Osman – The one that got away

As those who follow me on Twitter will know, several dozen people with seated tickets for Osman got turned away on Saturday due to overcapacity and double booking – no comment there. I wasn’t going to write anything about it as I was gutted – it being the show I most wanted to see – however I couldn’t resist having a peek.

Showing at the BFC tent literally five years after his LFW debut, Osman Yousefzada‘s SS11 offering was a pared down affair in comparison to previous collections and actually seemed a little lacklustre, as for me it didn’t have the wow factor that I’ve seen at many other shows in London, so far this season. Still exuding the same luxury, juxtaposing fabrics and Osman’s signature style, I particularly liked the simplicity and minimalism evident in the tailored dresses and jackets. The colour palette was interesting too, following the spring trend for pastels, in particular pistachio and lemon sorbet – my key word for the season it would seem. As a navy blue obsessive, I loved that in parts it underpinned the collection, adding a stark contrast to the paler and floatier fabrics, adding a sense of gravity and depth to an otherwise flat collection.

LFW SS11 Diary: Jena.Theo

Having met the Jena.Theo designers (Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis) at their press day back in March/April, I was very much looking forward to their SS11 debut as I knew to expect lots of super volume, a departure from black and grey and their trademark aesthetic for deconstruction.

As the lights rose, the exotic and tanned models filed out bobbing down the catwalk like giant fuchsias in full bloom, due to the heavy use of hot pinks and lavenders peppered throughout the collection – proving this to be one of the most quintessentially summer catwalks I’ve seen thus far. With every other models head swathed in fine silk white wraps, the overall look was a nod to old Victorian India.

By deftly fusing together elements from Victorian British colonialism and 21st Century Indian influences evident in Britain, the Bandoliers collection was the perfect juxtaposition of elegance from a by-gone era and modern cutting and draping techniques fused together seamlessly.

Playing with our notions of proportion, Jena.Theo’s SS11 collection was ripe with multi-functional garments which could be worn on their own, or deconstructed to form separates, ultimately giving their customers more bang for their buck (for want of a better phrase). Elegantly building upon their love of all things voluminous, fabrics were vast and bountiful, pleated and tucked effortlessly combining traditional sari shapes with western draping and embellishing.

From the luxurious silk twills, comfortable jerseys, and pastel denims this collection was one of pure experimentation and an expression of opulence, colour and cultural delight, deftly highlighting the exuberance of the traditional Holi Festival, where coloured pigments and herbs are thrown by revellers and worshippers.

The most structured piece to grace their BFC catwalk was a lavender hoop/cage skirted silk dress, which I feel was the pièce de résistance of this strong collection.