Brand Of The Week: Harold Kensington

Images throughout courtesy of Harold Kensington/ LCF and Catwalking. The above are photographed by Sean Michael. All images below are photographed by Christopher Moore.

Entitled ‘Samburu Gathering’, Kensington’s eye-catching autumn 2011 collection consists of strong rouched stripe detail dresses and sophisticated separates topped with thick boiled wool coats, complimented by unfinished swathes of draped fabric in bright, block colours. Capturing my imagination to the full, Kensington’s models sashayed down the catwalk looking like far-flung nomadic tribal goddesses, oozing luxury, class and elegance.

Created on what one would expect to be a tight, student budget, ‘Samburu Gathering’ is fittingly ‘inspired by the turmoil and depression of the 1940s, mixed with African tribal stripes and layering’. An intriguing collection that incorporates Kensington’s love of photography juxtaposed with different interpretations of the humble stripe, my favourite look would have to be the first to hit the catwalk; an 80s silhouette luxury woollen burgundy coat and canary yellow/ stripe detail blouse paired with the 'Bodi' high-waisted two-tone blue and baby pink trousers with a slightly dropped crotch and side buckle detail.

What really impressed me most about this collection was the level of attention to detail and superior intrinsic design that shone throughout, being particularly evident in the accompanying accessories. The bags were divine: coming in a variety of low-slung and shoulder designs, each made in red/ yellow or red/ blue leather, complete with studs on the base to rival the finish of any top designer. Shoes were painted (with stripes naturally), wooden block platforms with leather and metal detailing, that followed through beautifully in a variety of chokers and cuffs.

Speaking of his collection Kensington says: “My initiative explores projects that create new possibilities of fashion through the discovery of forms and mediums it exists in. I have the ability to reinvent fashion archetypes and basic shapes to create interest; this is a vantage point in an industry where it is central to stay relevant. I feel it is imperative to grow, revise and realize my ideas through recurrent analysis and critique to enable a suitable/wearable product for the Kensington woman, also to define idiosyncrasy as a contemporary luxury designer.

With the notion of novelty as a brand value I pull references from an extensive research pool covering cultural, historical and contemporary influences to form a body of explorations shaped by design process as well as my opinion. My style is informed by oversized fit translated into refined wearable womenswear; delivering a quality assured/luxury collection amidst the exploration of new surfaces, fit and creativity.”

Aged just 21, BA Fashion and Technology graduate Kensington currently works for Holly Fulton as a designer and pattern cutter, and with an ambition to design for a luxury fashion house such as Lanvin in the future, I have every confidence that the world is Mr Kensington’s oyster.

Fresh From The Production Line: Fairtrade Collective

Fairtrade Collective stand at Estethica

As always visiting the British Fashion Council’s Estethica exhibition during LFW is an eye-opening experience, guaranteed to uncover the newest brands and initiatives promoting fair-trade as a global multi-faceted concept, and in this case, sustainable fashion. This season proved to be no different with the Fairtrade Foundation introducing the Fairtrade Collective; uniting the Fairtrade Foundation with producers, designers and ASOS to make a big impact on fashion as we know it.

Design by Julie Verhoeven

Teaming up with 14 designers including - one of my favourites - Julie Verhoeven, Holly Fulton, Ada Zanditon, London Undercover, Tim Soar and Marios Schwab to name but a few, Fairtrade Collective has created a bespoke range of highly exquisite and desirable scarves - for both men and women - made from fair-trade certified cotton, sold exclusively by influential fashion e-tailer and market leader, ASOS.

Design by London Undercover

Using only the finest in digital printing techniques, each scarf bears the handwriting of its designer, acting like a signed piece of art – which will hopefully exude the same ‘priceless’ qualities. Choosing a combination of the established old guard and a staple of new generation talent, each designer has created a unique scarf that is on-trend for the forthcoming season and screams luxury.

Design by Tim Soar

Available from ASOS since the end of February to mark Fairtrade Fortnight (28 February - 13 March), each scarf purchased will come packaged in a beautiful draw-string bag made from fair-trade certified cotton repeating the same fabric choice and design of the scarf itself, cleverly maximising its longevity.

Design by Holly Fulton

On her involvement with the Fairtrade Foundation, Holly Fulton says: “It’s vital to utilize cotton in a modern fashion through strong design. Hopefully projects such as this will encourage that; I certainly look at fair-trade in a different light now.”

Fresh From The Production Line: Holly Fulton SS11

After spotting these amazing printed bags for the umpteenth time at LFW, I figured it only right that I highlight them for SS11. Designed by the amazing Holly Fulton, these graphic and kitsch clutch bags are going to be everywhere this season. If you're a big fan of colour and print, why not team with one of Holly's signature perspex necklaces to make a lasting impression!

Scrapbook: A few things that I'm thinking about...

Clockwise from top left: Lie Down I Think I Love You, 33 Amwell St; I love what they sell, but more importantly I love the exterior of the store. I used to live in Clerkenwell so its really familiar and indicative of the ward, which for a time was known as 'London's Little Italy'. She Died of Beauty; For Erin O'Connor and Kate Halfpenny's playful take on fashion. House of Flora; For exquisite fashion accessories designed by Flora McLean. I particularly love this yellow hat/wig. RP Encore; For the sheer brilliance and skill demonstrated in their wholly unique accessories. Holly Fulton; I'm a big fan of her fashion, but more importantly I love her prints and yellow is my favourite colour. Hermione de Paula; I absolutely love this dress from her SS11 collection.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: NEWGEN Exhibition

Each season I greatly look forward to visiting the Topshop/NEWGEN area due to the wealth of talent that is represented, with SS11 being the best I've seen to date. With each designer granted their own little white beach hut come shed situated on the terrace, both myself and some of the designers I spoke to loved the fact that you could enter stand-alone spaces that they could really make their own.

One of my favourite experimental designers is Louise Gray, due to her fearless combination of knitwear and kitsch. A renowned hoarder (a woman after my own heart), Gray's designs are a melting pot of ideas and inspirations, making something altogether unique.  

 

Another designer whom I greatly admire for her individuality is Holly Fulton who I feel has revolutionised Art Deco inspired jewellery, utilising lazer-cut perspex to great effect, translating her eyecatching prints and illustrations to fabric seamlessly. I particlularly like Fulton as she is not afraid to experiment with colour.

 Another designer whom I greatly admire is Fannie Schiavoni who I think produces the most unique pieces of costume jewellery which look simply stunning in photoshoots.

 

 I loved these Grazia puppy balloons that made appearances throughout LFW - hilarious.

A long term favourite, I was really excited to see Yang Du's presentation space, which was brimming with colour and kitsch print and emblems which never fail to remind me of my youth.

 

Peter Pilotto is yet another firm favourite who always triumphs in his quest to make beautiful garments that women love to wear - yet another designer who is on my wishlist.  

 

A designer I was not fasmiliar with until I wondered through the exhibition, I absolutely loved Felicity Brown's pieces, especially as the fringing and tie-dye really summed up the aesthetic for SS11.

  My favourite ethical designer, Christopher Raeburn was also representing another inspired collection created from re-appropriated military and parachute fabric.

 

London Fashion Week exhibitions: British Fashion Council Topshop Newgen

This week I've been feeling slightly racked with guilt that its taken me so long to finish all of my London Fashion Week related posts... no excuses... Must do better!!! Without any futher delay I hope you enjoy the plethora of images I took of the static exhibitions within Somerset House. There were way too many amazing designers exhibiting their wares, that I don't really think my limited words will do them the justice they deserve... bring on the press days when I can explore everything in much more detail and pay proper tribute to. No words neccessary...