LFW Diary AW12: Yang Du

In the theme of Noah's Ark Yang Du's new collection is a hoot! Entitled 'Why do fools fall in love?', a variety of owls, crocodiles, giraffes and big cats adorned bright knits while beautiful handmade leather mini rucksacks come iPad cases stole my attention. Always incorporating the surreal into each and every collection, for AW12 dinosaurs take pride of place alongside the animals.

Working with On|Off in London and Paris this season, I caught a glimpse of the presentation choreographed by artist Ryan Styles last Thursday at the preview and was wowed by the puppetry and energetic playfulness which came through a variety of animal sounds and exaggerated head pieces to bring the knitted creations to life. Bravo!

LFW Diary AW12: On|Off at the Rook + Raven Gallery

On|Off at the Rook + Raven Gallery from On|Off TV on Vimeo.

On Thursday I attended perhaps the most visually exciting and bizarre pre-LFW event of the AW12 season, On|Off’s ‘Stoboscopic showcase’ held at the Rook + Raven Gallery.

An exclusive soirée held in conjunction with Land Rover, this preview celebrated the best of On|Off’s forthcoming Paris line-up in the format of an intimate one off evening showcasing fashion, film, performance and art. Highlights included exclusive live performances and DJ sets from:
Amanda Lepore ft. Charlie Le Mindu
Martin Creed ft. Matteo Molinari
Natt Weller ft. Lee Lapthorne
Ryan Styles ft. Yang Du
Irina Lazareanu ft. Raphaelle H’Limi
Brendand Courtney ft. Bronwen Marshall
Early Morning Rebel and Marques Toliver

With just 80 guests the evening was a blur of striking visual art with performance artists as diverse as Amanda Lepore – the world’s most famous transsexual and an effervescent fixture on the New York scene, for those who don’t know – Ryan Styles and while not strictly performance, there is something overtly theatrical about the designs of both Charlie Le Mindu and Yang Du which were brought to life through dance and mime.

With several video projection screens set up and performance areas dotted around the Soho gallery, guests huddled together and were taken aback when a performance would spring up to their left or directly in front of them. I had the pleasure of seeing Marques Toliver up close and was genuinely blown away.

A gifted violinist and emotive vocalist, Toliver’s story is amazing - he cut his teeth supporting himself through busking with his violin and working in a vintage store in Brooklyn before travelling to the UK as part of Miles Benjamin Anthony Robinson’s band, and is perhaps my best discovery this month!

Also on the evening the On|Off Visionary Award winner for 2012 was announced. Judged by On|Off founder Lee Lapthorne, Editor-in-Chief of LOVE magazine Katie Grand and model and Rankin’s other half Tuuli to name but a few, design duo Cunnington and Sanderson were the victors.

"I'm really thrilled to be asked in the selection for On|Off. I've always respected their taste in designers and think they have a completely unique vision, which is interesting and slightly subversive. This year's winner, Cunnington and Sanderson are new stars in the making. Their presentation was professional and thought provoking. I wish them the very best of luck for the future." – Katie Grand

Two lethal Corvoisier cocktails were served, one long; with apple juice and ginger beer and one short; with triple sec and a dash of lemon juice. I remember one being called a Sidecar and I distinctly recall overindulging in both.

A star studded evening, fashion heavyweights Zandra Rhodes, Jane Shepherdson and Dr Frances Corner OBE, Head of London College of Fashion, were out in full force making this one of the hottest dates in the LFW calendar.
*Images throughout courtesy of On|Off and Canoe PR.  

LFW Diary SS12: Yang Du

A designer I thoroughly look forward to seeing during LFW, creates clothes so full of life and bursting with flamboyance that they are the epitome of fun. Yang Du has created yet another of her unique tongue-in-cheek collections inspired by the ‘throws of love’. Entitled Wink Boy, Yang’s SS12 offering features a plethora of eye-catching animals, witty slogans, and ‘cavorting characters’.

Inspired by the street art and architecture of Berlin, expect Yang’s trademark sense of humour, wit and sex appeal. Oversized shapes dominate with hooded embellished jackets created exclusively for the British summer, which I learned after asking the designer why they were on the thick side for SS.

Playful 3-D animals adorn cable-knit cardigans and appear on school-inspired rucksacks, with intricately beaded trinkets given a new lease of life in the form of necklaces and bag charms. True collector’s items in their own right, Yang is like a magpie, pulling together the most exciting of materials with each collection.

At just three years old the Yang Du label goes from strength to strength each season, spearheaded by the designer’s desire to ‘blur the line between art and fashion’.

LFW Diary AW11: Yang Du

A delight to see each and every season, I always look forward to checking out the Topshop/ NEWGEN tents and rooms to get an early peek at Yang Du's latest collection. Undoubtedly my favourite queen of kitsch, everything she turns her hand to screams fun and I love the spirit that her eponymous brand embodies. A visceral treat of texture and colour to look forward to in AW, Yang Du makes winter not seem so dark and dreary, after all.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: NEWGEN Exhibition

Each season I greatly look forward to visiting the Topshop/NEWGEN area due to the wealth of talent that is represented, with SS11 being the best I've seen to date. With each designer granted their own little white beach hut come shed situated on the terrace, both myself and some of the designers I spoke to loved the fact that you could enter stand-alone spaces that they could really make their own.

One of my favourite experimental designers is Louise Gray, due to her fearless combination of knitwear and kitsch. A renowned hoarder (a woman after my own heart), Gray's designs are a melting pot of ideas and inspirations, making something altogether unique.  

 

Another designer whom I greatly admire for her individuality is Holly Fulton who I feel has revolutionised Art Deco inspired jewellery, utilising lazer-cut perspex to great effect, translating her eyecatching prints and illustrations to fabric seamlessly. I particlularly like Fulton as she is not afraid to experiment with colour.

 Another designer whom I greatly admire is Fannie Schiavoni who I think produces the most unique pieces of costume jewellery which look simply stunning in photoshoots.

 

 I loved these Grazia puppy balloons that made appearances throughout LFW - hilarious.

A long term favourite, I was really excited to see Yang Du's presentation space, which was brimming with colour and kitsch print and emblems which never fail to remind me of my youth.

 

Peter Pilotto is yet another firm favourite who always triumphs in his quest to make beautiful garments that women love to wear - yet another designer who is on my wishlist.  

 

A designer I was not fasmiliar with until I wondered through the exhibition, I absolutely loved Felicity Brown's pieces, especially as the fringing and tie-dye really summed up the aesthetic for SS11.

  My favourite ethical designer, Christopher Raeburn was also representing another inspired collection created from re-appropriated military and parachute fabric.