LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: NEWGEN Exhibition

Each season I greatly look forward to visiting the Topshop/NEWGEN area due to the wealth of talent that is represented, with SS11 being the best I've seen to date. With each designer granted their own little white beach hut come shed situated on the terrace, both myself and some of the designers I spoke to loved the fact that you could enter stand-alone spaces that they could really make their own.

One of my favourite experimental designers is Louise Gray, due to her fearless combination of knitwear and kitsch. A renowned hoarder (a woman after my own heart), Gray's designs are a melting pot of ideas and inspirations, making something altogether unique.  

 

Another designer whom I greatly admire for her individuality is Holly Fulton who I feel has revolutionised Art Deco inspired jewellery, utilising lazer-cut perspex to great effect, translating her eyecatching prints and illustrations to fabric seamlessly. I particlularly like Fulton as she is not afraid to experiment with colour.

 Another designer whom I greatly admire is Fannie Schiavoni who I think produces the most unique pieces of costume jewellery which look simply stunning in photoshoots.

 

 I loved these Grazia puppy balloons that made appearances throughout LFW - hilarious.

A long term favourite, I was really excited to see Yang Du's presentation space, which was brimming with colour and kitsch print and emblems which never fail to remind me of my youth.

 

Peter Pilotto is yet another firm favourite who always triumphs in his quest to make beautiful garments that women love to wear - yet another designer who is on my wishlist.  

 

A designer I was not fasmiliar with until I wondered through the exhibition, I absolutely loved Felicity Brown's pieces, especially as the fringing and tie-dye really summed up the aesthetic for SS11.

  My favourite ethical designer, Christopher Raeburn was also representing another inspired collection created from re-appropriated military and parachute fabric.

 

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Erdem

Held just after Alexander McQueen’s memorial, the Erdem SS11 show took place in the heart of Bloomsbury. Presented in an open white tent, the leafy location of Bedford Square was the perfect setting for Moralioglu's romantic collection, perfectly encapsulating the spirit of spring.

After being asked to design a souvenir scarf for the current Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes exhibition at the V&A, Erdem was granted unprecedented access to their expansive catalogue of illustrations, sets and costumes for the legendary Ballet Russes, providing the primary inspiration for his SS11 offering.

Taking on the inherent sense of movement in ballet, Erdem’s collection was full of soft A-line skirts, cigarette pants and smocks dominated by fitting hues of poppy red, blue orchid, violet purple and lily cream.

Erdem’s trademark digital prints made a welcome appearance bursting with florals, creating a delightfully delicate aesthetic of a modern ethereal goddess. Optimism, fragility and innocence were lesser themes reflected in Swiss hand-crocheted white lace and sheer blouses, reminiscent of christening gowns and wedding dresses – fit only for the purist of occasions.

With a folk/ Russian doll twist, embroidery and patchwork united the collection seamlessly, further enhanced by a smattering Swarovski crystals, highlighting the detail that went into some of the dizzy and painterly florals. With simple and elegant details such as platform sandals with espadrille-like floral ribbon ties further perpetuating the ballet theme, once again Erdem has surpassed expectations, creating an overtly feminine collection, brimming with style, luxury and most of all, talent.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Paul Smith

With beautiful clothes to make every woman with a pulse swoon each season, Sir Paul Smith simply has to be up there in my imaginary list of designers I would love to dress me. With a hard act to follow from last season, as the decadent gowns and rich velvets made me fall head over heels, I’m lovesick all over again for the heady mix of androgynous tailoring and 70’s floral shifts presented for SS11.

Deftly blurring the lines between genders in his eponymous collection, stand-out garments were the micro grey tailored shorts with matching waistcoat and a gorgeous plain navy long sleeved romper suit. A great combination of simplistic city chic and cute-as-a-button dresses fit for luncheons and tea parties, this could well be Sir Paul’s most versatile collection for a few years.

In a rich colour palette of burnt umbers, rich browns and formal black and grey, the mood was slightly autumnal, playfully lifted by Sir Paul’s trademark sense of humour which saw candy stripes and polka dots make appearances in details such as neckties and thin knits.

A thoroughly preppy collection styled to perfection, each look sent down the catwalk was entirely wearable oozing a laid-back vibe, whilst still being infinitely ‘on-trend’ and fashion forward. I loved the painterly floral silk dresses, and the romantic and whimsical element they added to the overall mood –referencing the spirit of the 70’s to a tee.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Kinder Aggugini

A designer I have admired from afar, this LFW I managed to get an invite to the SS11 showcase and was gutted that I couldn’t make the showing late on the Sunday evening, although I did watch it online, so I was there in spirit.

Inspired by a book titled, Travels in the Interior Districts of Africa, Aggugini's animal tusk framed catwalk set the tone for the show with hints of animal print, leather fringing and tribal carving references peppered throughout. With heavily tailored structured jackets and belt buckles dominating, the safari theme was infectious, filtering through to elegant linen pieces and shirt dresses with oversized patch pockets.

My favourite garments were twisted draped silk dresses and maxi dresses with exquisite tie-dye prints in rich sunset hues of burnt orange and brown and midnight violets and rich navy blues. A subtle Africa themed collection – in comparison to what we witnessed on some of the catwalks last SS - Aggugini explored tribal influences by experimenting with clashing patterns juxtaposed with a range of eclectic accessories including rudimentary hats made from cardboard and newspaper bringing this exotic collection, back to the UK with a bang.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Ashish

Much loved for his unrivalled take on fashion, I love nothing better than trying to guess what this great young designer will choose next as his inspiration, however sadly I was way off the mark this time round so won’t be sharing my predictions here.

This season it appears Ashish has delved into the depths of his dressing-up box and pulled out all things referencing Cowboys and Indians. You name it tassels, suede fringing, feathers, cowboy boots and bandanas made appearances, which were in stark contrast to the muted colours and restrained aesthetics seen across many of the LFW collections – merely an observation.

Not detracting from the qualities we’ve come to know and love - who else would ever reference the humble baked bean - Ashish described the inspiration for the collection as ‘the bastard child of Calamity Jane and Rooster Cogburn’ - throw Dolly Parton into the mix and what more could you want for SS11?!

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Mulberry

For me there is almost nothing to say about the Mulberry SS11 collection. For many years Mulberry has been my most lusted-after-label due to its sheer simplicity and ability to exude luxury in an understated and elegant way as opposed to gaudy brands such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton, who insist on scribbling initials or logos all over their products like an only child with megalomaniac tendencies. Mulberry is iconic, classic, timeless and most brilliant of all – it’s quintessentially British.

Between you and me I have always wanted the classic wardrobe staple that is the Bayswater bag, although it has recently been usurped by the much trendier Alexa in my ‘grown-up wardrobe wishlist’. Anyway, whilst I a)work in fashion and b)could probably afford it, for some reason I’ve never let myself indulge and am instead saving that treat for my 25th birthday, as both a celebration of my upcoming quarter-Century, but also as a pat on the back for actually ‘earning it’.

As expected, greatness was the lasting message that emanated from the brand’s SS11 offering. As always it was all about the minor details and one I loved most of all was the unabashed red-head celebration that showed every model cast in all her auburn glory. With giant pink blooms taking over the catwalk, themes were the film Grey Gardens and Frances Hodgson Burnett’s novel The Secret Garden, which informed the block colour palette and set the tone of the show. With kookily illustrated paper dolls propping up the catwalk and bunny’s making a comeback - look no further than the LFW tote bag - I’m planning to go into hibernation until the first daisies and daffodils arrive and maybe I’ll have saved enough pennies for my spring slice of Mulberry delight.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Mary Katrantzou

A firm favourite in the lustful fashion-land of a Creative-Idle, I ‘m pretty obsessed with Mary Katrantzou’s prints  – albeit from a distance due to their reasonable, yet still altogether out of my league prices.

What strikes me most about the new collection, 'Ces't Ci Nes Pas Une Chambre' (This Is Not A Room), is how the Topshop/NEWGEN designer has evolved her aesthetic from last season, astutely utilizing an array of succinct references inspired by the world of interiors.

Paying homage to the graphic sets indicative of Guy Boudin justaposed with the art direction of Helmut Newton's iconic fashion portraiture, further meshed with the 70’s East Coast architectural trend, the results are staggeringly dramatic.

As always, the colour palette was electrifying, with Katranzou building upon her use of geometric shapes to create a blend of bold structured shapes and lines with soft finishings and statement skirts – my favourite of which were the lampshade variety, amazing!

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Bunmi Koko

Founded in March 2009, Bunmi Koko is a brand I hadn’t heard much about before the recent LFW. Specialising in couture womenswear and RTW fashion, Bunmi Koko fuse luxury design with artistic illustration - the sister side of the business - to create sculptural, elegant and handmade garments – with a wow impact.

With a growing portfolio of products ranging from women’s, men’s and kid’s wear to lingerie, accessories, eyewear, swimwear footwear and beauty – this Nigerian inspired/ heritage brand are diversifying to offer their fans a range of products and services inspired by illustration: book and CD covers, movie posters, editorials, advertising, merchandise and special commissions.

After a bit of research I’ve discovered a fair bit about Bunmi Koko and am a bit shocked to realise that they weren’t on my radar, which begs the question; why?! With signature headdresses, a plethora of bright colour and pattern, this is a collection that for want of a better phrase - is right up my street. With several press pieces consisting of oversized pom-poms teamed with fringed visors, I have it under good authority that models opened the presentation with an authentic war dance, bringing together a show that sounds as if it was larger than life.

Entitled Matriarchy, Koko’s SS11 collection is clearly inspired by Nigeria’s tribal culture, and corresponding traiditional costumes, rendering me gutted to have missed this salon show as it subsequently became one of the most talked about shows (among the people I know and those I overheard).

With a successful 2010 under their belts - becoming Finalists at the 2010 Grampian Awards for Emerging Entrepreneur of the Year in Scotland as well as winning the African Fashion Award for the Emerging International Designer of The Year in Johannesburg – who knows what accolades 2011 will bring.

*Images throughout courtesy of Felicities Designer Showroom.