Thursday 7 October 2010

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Erdem

Held just after Alexander McQueen’s memorial, the Erdem SS11 show took place in the heart of Bloomsbury. Presented in an open white tent, the leafy location of Bedford Square was the perfect setting for Moralioglu's romantic collection, perfectly encapsulating the spirit of spring.

After being asked to design a souvenir scarf for the current Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes exhibition at the V&A, Erdem was granted unprecedented access to their expansive catalogue of illustrations, sets and costumes for the legendary Ballet Russes, providing the primary inspiration for his SS11 offering.

Taking on the inherent sense of movement in ballet, Erdem’s collection was full of soft A-line skirts, cigarette pants and smocks dominated by fitting hues of poppy red, blue orchid, violet purple and lily cream.

Erdem’s trademark digital prints made a welcome appearance bursting with florals, creating a delightfully delicate aesthetic of a modern ethereal goddess. Optimism, fragility and innocence were lesser themes reflected in Swiss hand-crocheted white lace and sheer blouses, reminiscent of christening gowns and wedding dresses – fit only for the purist of occasions.

With a folk/ Russian doll twist, embroidery and patchwork united the collection seamlessly, further enhanced by a smattering Swarovski crystals, highlighting the detail that went into some of the dizzy and painterly florals. With simple and elegant details such as platform sandals with espadrille-like floral ribbon ties further perpetuating the ballet theme, once again Erdem has surpassed expectations, creating an overtly feminine collection, brimming with style, luxury and most of all, talent.

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