LFW Diary AW11: Felicity Brown

A designer whom I’d heard great things about last season through Fashion East’s talent platform; Felicity Brown is certainly ‘one to watch’. Her inaugural collection for SS11 featured a plethora of hand-dyed silks and ruffled dresses, inspired by Japanese origami, Bedouin women, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec’s paintings of showy girls in disheveled, provoking dresses, as well as her own study of flowers – creating an overtly feminine collection with layering at its core.

Repeating her signature design aesthetic for AW11, the NEWGEN sponsored designer really caught my eye during LFW, incorporating what looked to be subtle tribal prints to great effect. First spotted during her Royal College of Art graduate show – from which the collection was selected to be exhibited at Sotheby’s of London - Brown went on to design for Alberta Ferretti, Loewe, Mulberry and Lanvin before setting up her own label based in Brick Lane. Highly influenced by tribal designs from around the world, Brown told Vogue.com: “I like looking at tribal costumes from all over the world and the way tribes mark themselves. I find that much more fascinating than minimal tailoring. I made each individual piece that forms each dress separately. At the last minute I smashed it all together and that was it.”

Newgen sponsorship winners for AW11 announced

The year has almost come full circle, and today marks the last offical announcement on the British fashion calendar, allowing us fashion enthusiasts, journalists and bloggers alike to start planning our pre-LFW coverage. No fewer than 18 of London's premiere and upcoming designers have been awarded BFC/ NEWGEN sponsorship for AW11, with many familiar faces returning for another season.

Catwalk sponsorship: David Koma, Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou and Michael van der Ham.
Presentation sponsorship: Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, JS Lee, JW Anderson (film presentation) and Nasir Mazhar.
Installation sponsorship: Dominic Jones and Jordan Askill.
Exhibition sponsorship: Chau Har Lee, Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, David Koma, Dominic Jones, Fannie Schiavoni, Felicity Brown, Heikki Salonen, Holly Fulton, Jordan Askill, JS Lee, JW Anderson, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou, Michael van der Ham, Nasir Mazhar, Thomas Tait and Yang Du.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: NEWGEN Exhibition

Each season I greatly look forward to visiting the Topshop/NEWGEN area due to the wealth of talent that is represented, with SS11 being the best I've seen to date. With each designer granted their own little white beach hut come shed situated on the terrace, both myself and some of the designers I spoke to loved the fact that you could enter stand-alone spaces that they could really make their own.

One of my favourite experimental designers is Louise Gray, due to her fearless combination of knitwear and kitsch. A renowned hoarder (a woman after my own heart), Gray's designs are a melting pot of ideas and inspirations, making something altogether unique.  

 

Another designer whom I greatly admire for her individuality is Holly Fulton who I feel has revolutionised Art Deco inspired jewellery, utilising lazer-cut perspex to great effect, translating her eyecatching prints and illustrations to fabric seamlessly. I particlularly like Fulton as she is not afraid to experiment with colour.

 Another designer whom I greatly admire is Fannie Schiavoni who I think produces the most unique pieces of costume jewellery which look simply stunning in photoshoots.

 

 I loved these Grazia puppy balloons that made appearances throughout LFW - hilarious.

A long term favourite, I was really excited to see Yang Du's presentation space, which was brimming with colour and kitsch print and emblems which never fail to remind me of my youth.

 

Peter Pilotto is yet another firm favourite who always triumphs in his quest to make beautiful garments that women love to wear - yet another designer who is on my wishlist.  

 

A designer I was not fasmiliar with until I wondered through the exhibition, I absolutely loved Felicity Brown's pieces, especially as the fringing and tie-dye really summed up the aesthetic for SS11.

  My favourite ethical designer, Christopher Raeburn was also representing another inspired collection created from re-appropriated military and parachute fabric.