LFW Diary AW11: Osman

Imagery throughout courtesy of Catwalking

One of my all-time favourite designers, whom I think of as the king of respectable hemlines, it was an absolute pleasure to attend Osman Yousefzada’s AW11 catwalk show last Sunday afternoon. My first to witness in person, the atmosphere was electric inside the BFC tent. On superb form as one would expect, the audience were treated to Osman’s signature architectural cuts, once again emphatically demonstrating why he is the go-to designer for the discerning modern woman.

Deriving inspiration from the 2002 Turner Prize nominated artist Catherine Yass’s recent series of light-boxes titled Decommissioned, Osman infused the deep blue slick of colour used in this series as the starting point for his AW11 collection. Taking his minimal-luxe aesthetic one step further, trademark silhouettes were present throughout the collection in a combination of textured winter fabrics such as cashmere, quilted brocade - which looked a lot like quilted seersucker from where I was sat - matelasse, nappa leather and alpaca wool.

With capes and floor-sweeping coats featuring heavily, it was the softly structured dresses that really stood out, deftly utilising the zip detailing present throughout the collection to transform the garments into multi-functional pieces – enabling them to be converted into separates of differing lengths, further enhancing this truly versatile collection. Demonstrating a mild foray into print, the rich colour palette consisted of fuchsia pinks, strong oranges, bright aquas and vivid greens blocked with cream – perfectly styled to compliment Osman’s signature shade of blue. Clean lines and fitted bodices sat atop impeccably tailored trousers and soft bell-shaped skirts, culminating in a range of sharply tailored and elegantly draped separates, chic enough to be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.

Key garments included a cute panelled calf-length A-line skirt in peach sorbet and a variety of tops which were finished with thick bands of leather in fluorescent greens and pinks to accentuate the waist, also repeated on elegant strapless dresses. With spat detail peep-toes complimenting the collection perfectly, heels were - perhaps predictably - on the chunky side, with stacked-heel loafers making an appearance in what looked to be the softest of leathers and pony skin. Adding to the drama of the occasion, models wore sharp black bobbed wigs - bearing close resemblance to Victoria Beckham’s now infamous 'Pob' - hinting that this could once again become the must-have hair cut of the season.

In sum, a timeless and classically beautiful collection from Osman that will once again see his stock rise further on the trajectory to fashion infamy.

LFW SS11 Diary: Osman – The one that got away

As those who follow me on Twitter will know, several dozen people with seated tickets for Osman got turned away on Saturday due to overcapacity and double booking – no comment there. I wasn’t going to write anything about it as I was gutted – it being the show I most wanted to see – however I couldn’t resist having a peek.

Showing at the BFC tent literally five years after his LFW debut, Osman Yousefzada‘s SS11 offering was a pared down affair in comparison to previous collections and actually seemed a little lacklustre, as for me it didn’t have the wow factor that I’ve seen at many other shows in London, so far this season. Still exuding the same luxury, juxtaposing fabrics and Osman’s signature style, I particularly liked the simplicity and minimalism evident in the tailored dresses and jackets. The colour palette was interesting too, following the spring trend for pastels, in particular pistachio and lemon sorbet – my key word for the season it would seem. As a navy blue obsessive, I loved that in parts it underpinned the collection, adding a stark contrast to the paler and floatier fabrics, adding a sense of gravity and depth to an otherwise flat collection.