LFW Diary AW11: The North Circular

A brand that could perhaps run the risk of being overshadowed by its celebrity supporters is knitwear specialists, The North Circular, whose canny strap-line is ‘knitted by grannies, supported by supermodels’. Unravelling their AW11 collection via a video installation piece, Metamorphosis depicts - fellow former Marylebone School girl turned supermodel and co-founder of The North Circular - Lily Cole exploring themes of regeneration, surrealism and the opportunity for change.

Wrapping and cocooning the body in oversized shapes, Metamorphosis uses the finest in hand-knitted accessories to hold and wrap the wearer’s body in a beautiful blend of sustainable wool and luxury British ethically sourced end-of-line cashmere. Utilising a fresh and natural colour palette of forest green, pink sand and red flame, chunky Fisherman’s ribs and intricate cable detailing are used to great effect, firmly establishing The North Circular as the go-to brand for the finest in sustainable knitwear.

Now in their fourth season, The North Circular started their label by making a pledge that all of their wool accessories will be hand-produced in the UK, from sheep to spinner and dyer to knitter, with the underlying aim to create a low mileage product. Continually supporting the Sheep Sanctuary, The North Circular work tirelessly endorsing plight of the endangered Wensleydale breed; campaigning for higher standards in animal welfare. With transparency being crucial to the success of a brand in the modern world, each North Circular garment comes with a kimble informing the customer of how many sheep have been rescued so far, with the current tally boasting 614.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Estethica Exhibition

Founded over four years ago by the BFC, each season the Esthethica exhibition is a highlight on my LFW schedule and this time round I attended the champagne brunch. It was really nice to see designers whom I've worked with previously: Henrietta Ludgate, Lu Flux and Little Glass Clementine for a catch-up, whilst also discovering some cool new brands such as Michelle Lowe-Holder (below), Max Jenny and She Died Of Beauty.  

 Partimi is one of those labels I absolutely love when I see it at exhibitions and press days and stupidly forget about until I next see it, kicking myself for missing out on owning a piece from the previous collection. Entitled Dieu Bleu, founder/designer Eleanor Dorrien-Smith's SS11 offering is designed in homage to costumes her grandmother collected from a 1969 Sotheby's sale of Diaghilev's Ballet Russes costumes.

 It was great to see a sneak peak of Ada's superb SS11 collection; The Pyramora before the fashion show took place later in the week (read my review). Up-close Zanditon's geometric shapes were concise and meticulously constructed, her colour palette and textures rich and strong.

 

 Among the many labels exhibiting were supermodel Lily Cole, Isobel Davies (of Izzy Lane), Katherine Poulton and Alice Ashby's brand, The North Circular, who had some really great chunky knitwear.  

What I love most about Little Glass Clementine is how each of her pieces is entirely unique, weaving together the precious and the discarded, encouraging clients to contribute objects that hold special memories. An environmental activist and jeweller Clementine James recycles and remakes jewellery in the hope of retelling a story. I am a huge fan of Clementine and think her pieces are an exquisite fusion of past and present treasures, juxtaposed with found objects such as pebbles creating dramatic ruffs and statement pieces.

 Always a firm favourite Scottish Luxury Textile label Henrietta Ludgate was really impressive. I loved her departure from linen, utilising beautiful fabrics and cuts to create an eye-popping collection that for me at least, had a 60's romance to it. My favourite garment was the navy blue coat modelled for me below. I love the quilting, the patching and the cord trim - another item for my wish list.

The next designer I caught was the lovely Lu Flux whose collections I adore and this season I really like the menswear too and can really see myself in the jacket (above left) and the shorts (below).

 Nestled between two rooms was She Died Of Beauty, the ethical and organically produced label founded by Supermodel Erin O'Connor and Kate Halfpenny which produces printed bags and t-shirts.

 Last of all I spotted Max Jenny who creates abstractedly printed waterproof jackets that are pretty cool and would definitely aid your discovery if lost on a mountainside.