Lu Flux: A-Lu-Ha

As spring approaches Lu Flux’s fantastical Hawaiian prints seem fitting and mix two of the hottest macro and micro trends for SS12; pastels and patchwork.

LFW Diary SS12: Lu Flux

Another designer whose eponymous collections I love seeing each and every season (AW10, SS11, AW11) is the mighty Lu Flux. Wittily titled ‘A-Lu-Ha’, Lu’s SS12 offering plays on the expectations of a tropical British summer and the resulting miserable reality. Self-described as an ‘idyllic Polynesian’ collection, it features everything that epitomises a serene summer of fun in paradise. Think rich candy hues, paper parasols and Hawaiian iconography.

Reflecting her chosen theme perfectly, Lu’s collection perfectly mixes cute and flirty summer apron dresses, layered crepe de chine skirts and trademark patchwork tops, deftly juxtaposed with waterproof jackets, and of course the obligatory Hawaiian shirt, with a Flux twist: beautiful laser-cut hibiscus and Tiki-masked warriors dancing around campfires are a mainstay.

As usual colour shines to the fore and Lu’s stand (in collaboration with Earthborn) at the LFW exhibition was an amazing sight, and to top things off nicely there was even a huge cookie. Always playful, always fun and always a pleasure!

LFW Diary AW11: Lu Flux

A designer whose charm and wit transcends the constraints of fashion design, Lu Flux has been pioneering ethical fashion on her own terms for several years, fast becoming a firm favourite of mine. If like me, fashion with heaps of character is your bag, than you’ll find the eponymous Lu Flux label to be bursting at the seams, offering quintessentially British eccentricity neatly compacted into delectable wearable delights.

Having been introduced to Flux's work through her SS10 collection; the cleverly titled Eco Life of Riley really caught my attention and imagination: featuring costume bluetit suits, eclectic patchwork detailing, jarring graphics and hand-crafted raffia goods made in conjunction with SOKO Kenya (as mentioned in my Lalesso GOTW post on Friday).

Revered for her trademark wide shapes, it was business as usual when I saw Flux and her beautiful AW11 collection, Sea and be Seen at Estethica, where she has exhibited twice previously. Inspired by the eternal, alluring mysteries of the deep blue sea, silhouettes are loose and lean, accentuated by opulent velvets in rich burgundy and aqua marine shades, purposefully designed to sit awkwardly on the body with adroit manipulation of fabric resembling giant clams and anemones – subtly bringing the murky sea to life.

Working in collaboration with artist and illustrator Dan Arnold, Flux has utilised intriguing drawings of ‘mind-boggling deep-sea beasts amid the inky waves’, which are digitally printed onto jersey, and blown up-from their microscopic habitats to be quilted onto heritage Harris Tweed and of course the sumptuous velvet, which features oh-so heavily. A thoroughly regal affair that screams “high quality”, this season Flux’s knitwear is sponsored by Jamieson + Smith of the Shetland Islands who create beautiful yarns from the wool of purebred Shetland Sheep.

Key garments include the ‘Kelp Cardigan’ in grey with oversized white polka dots reminiscent of ethereal clouds and the ‘Fin Dress’; an oversized shirt with ruffle detailing, repeated in differing variations throughout the collection. I particularly loved the shoes with their oversized buckle details and patchwork colours reminding me of swashbucklers! Partnering with Green Shoes - the ethical, hand-made shoe company based in Devon - for the third time Flux’s footwear scores a hat-trick utilising the velvet from the collection to add corresponding finishes to shoes, bags and belts.

Sea And Be Seen: Lu Flux Autumn/Winter Collection 2011 from Neil O'Driscoll on Vimeo.

To put a finer point on the beauty and detail of this collection, Flux has done fashion journalists and bloggers a great favour by teaming up with her long-term collaborative partner Neil O’Driscoll, to create a short film which brings to life the aquatic motifs of the collection in a velvet-draped den of iniquity.

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Estethica Exhibition

Founded over four years ago by the BFC, each season the Esthethica exhibition is a highlight on my LFW schedule and this time round I attended the champagne brunch. It was really nice to see designers whom I've worked with previously: Henrietta Ludgate, Lu Flux and Little Glass Clementine for a catch-up, whilst also discovering some cool new brands such as Michelle Lowe-Holder (below), Max Jenny and She Died Of Beauty.  

 Partimi is one of those labels I absolutely love when I see it at exhibitions and press days and stupidly forget about until I next see it, kicking myself for missing out on owning a piece from the previous collection. Entitled Dieu Bleu, founder/designer Eleanor Dorrien-Smith's SS11 offering is designed in homage to costumes her grandmother collected from a 1969 Sotheby's sale of Diaghilev's Ballet Russes costumes.

 It was great to see a sneak peak of Ada's superb SS11 collection; The Pyramora before the fashion show took place later in the week (read my review). Up-close Zanditon's geometric shapes were concise and meticulously constructed, her colour palette and textures rich and strong.

 

 Among the many labels exhibiting were supermodel Lily Cole, Isobel Davies (of Izzy Lane), Katherine Poulton and Alice Ashby's brand, The North Circular, who had some really great chunky knitwear.  

What I love most about Little Glass Clementine is how each of her pieces is entirely unique, weaving together the precious and the discarded, encouraging clients to contribute objects that hold special memories. An environmental activist and jeweller Clementine James recycles and remakes jewellery in the hope of retelling a story. I am a huge fan of Clementine and think her pieces are an exquisite fusion of past and present treasures, juxtaposed with found objects such as pebbles creating dramatic ruffs and statement pieces.

 Always a firm favourite Scottish Luxury Textile label Henrietta Ludgate was really impressive. I loved her departure from linen, utilising beautiful fabrics and cuts to create an eye-popping collection that for me at least, had a 60's romance to it. My favourite garment was the navy blue coat modelled for me below. I love the quilting, the patching and the cord trim - another item for my wish list.

The next designer I caught was the lovely Lu Flux whose collections I adore and this season I really like the menswear too and can really see myself in the jacket (above left) and the shorts (below).

 Nestled between two rooms was She Died Of Beauty, the ethical and organically produced label founded by Supermodel Erin O'Connor and Kate Halfpenny which produces printed bags and t-shirts.

 Last of all I spotted Max Jenny who creates abstractedly printed waterproof jackets that are pretty cool and would definitely aid your discovery if lost on a mountainside.

AW10 Press Days: Part Nine

There seem to be way too many good press days this season - in comparison to last - but I'm guessing that this may just be because I didn't attend as many as I'd have liked back in November. Anyhow I've been going to so many that I'm failing to report back fast enough so get used to more photographs and less words, which may well be music to your ears.

At Bryan Morel PR I loved the colours and sophisticated cuts from Maria Grachvogel, and I have to say publicly that the lunch spread was wonderful:

Naturally, as you'd expect John Rocha's collection was a cracker! Close-up I loved the quality that shone through with all of the fabrics weighing a tonne.

I thoroughly enjoyed the chic silhouettes, digital prints, and of course Swarovski crystal numbers present in the Osman collection.

Mostly as a reminder to self, I've included this cute bear face bum bag from Mango... will be used in a shoot very soon!

At Iroquois PR I only took a couple of noteworthy snaps. First up was is one of favourite ethical designers - Lu Flux.

Another firm favourite, held in high regard by everyone (I'm taking into account that if a designer is BFC/ Newgen backed then they should be considered 'good stock' by the fashion pack) is Christopher Raeburn, whom as we all know by now uses re-appropriated military fabrics and parachute material.

Truly great brands were on display at the H PR press day - a land I had not had the pleasure of visiting before!

I love these playful garments designed by Elizabeth Lau, which will be going in my forthcoming clown shoot.

I loved this woven suede and leather laptop case.

One of my new favourite brands discovered at the press days is Paul and Joe Sister. I loved the cuts, the textures and also the prints.

Tba was another new brand, whose collection I was pleasantly suprised with.

Paul and Joe's collection was also lovely and the floral blazer in particular caught my attention.