LFW Diary AW11: Jean-Pierre Braganza

Images throughout courtesy of Catwalking

On Friday afternoon I attended my first show at the new show space at the Chester Boyd venue, 8 Northumberland Avenue. Held in the main ballroom, the space was completely packed to the rafters even though it’s one of the biggest, with the exception of the central BFC show space. A former - albeit brief - lecturer at my university, this is the first season I’ve got into a Jean-Pierre Braganza show and had the opportunity to fully experience his design aesthetic in both mens and womenswear.

Entitled Positronyx, Braganza’s AW11 offering is a ‘cultivated collection for a woman who is a leader and a warrior’. Influenced by Science Fiction, Braganza’s heroines are fresh from the future, where dark uniforms are de rigueur for a more abstruse time when identity, security and societal controls are paramount.

With military tailoring denoting discipline and loyalty, shapes were contrasted between deconstructed and restricted. Motorcycle leather played a leading role - in the forms of crushed, nubuck and gloss - juxtaposed with suede, sheer silk and fur to create an array of futuristically sexy looks. Body-con was turned on its head with loose fitting knitted dresses, while embroidery, stud detailing and complex panelling played to Braganza’s strengths.

Bright splashes of fire red and cream cooled the heavily dark black and charcoal collection, adding another dimension to Braganza’s trademark strict femininity. Make-up by Terry Barber and the MAC PRO team was dramatic, with models heavily rouged up to the temples in what I’d call a ‘Mayday look’, made famous by the heroine that is Grace Jones. Gloves by Aspinal of London and footwear by Nicholas Kirkwood really added to this exquisite showcase.

British Fashion Awards

*From left to right: Naomi Campbell, Nicola Formichetti and Lara Stone

Last night in the splendor of the newly re-opened Savoy Hotel the British Fashion Council hosted the 2010 British Fashion Awards. The 12 awards were presented to:

EMERGING TALENT AWARD – ACCESSORIES: Husam El Odeh
EMERGING TALENT AWARD - READY TO WEAR: Meadham Kirchhoff
DESIGNER BRAND: Mulberry
MODEL: Lara Stone
ACCESSORY DESIGNER: Nicholas Kirkwood
MENSWEAR DESIGNER: Patrick Grant for E. Tautz
BFC OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION DESIGN: Lee Alexander McQueen
BRITISH STYLE: Alexa Chung
ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR: Nicola Formichetti
DESIGNER OF THE YEAR: Phoebe Philo for Celine
SPECIAL RECOGNITION AWARD: Naomi Campbell
DIGITAL INNOVATION AWARD: Burberry

*From left to right: Emma Hill of Mulberry, Meadham Kirchhoff and Phoebe Philo

I'm particularly happy that Phoebe Philo won designer of the year for Celine as she is one of my favourite designers whom I've loved since she worked under Stella McCartney at Chloe in the late '90s. Also pleased to see Formichetti pick up a gong.
*Images throughout courtesy of Billa Baldwin

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Somerset House Exhibition

During LFW I love nothing more than having a root around the exhibition space in Somerset House to discover new and exciting designers, with this season being no exception. The first great designer I stumbled upon is Ioannis Dimitrousis whose first foray into womenswear (after previously producing several collections of menswear since graduating from LCF in 2005) is exceptional, utilising knitting techniques to create modern, sculptural and highly sophisticated dresses.

In the Haynes PR room I found Cecilia Mary Robson, whose garments I was drawn to instantly due to the beautiful silks and dressing-up-box colours. Another new designer on my SS11 wish list!

A brand I love more and more each season is Eudon Choi for their pared down colour palettes, clean lines and superior cutting skills and high-quality fabrics. I love the exhibitions and press days more than the shows (in some respects) as you always get to really examine the pieces up close and also meet the talent behind the brands. Check out one of the designers, the lovely Kate who sweetly held pieces up for me to snap in the pic below, right. My favourite garment from SS11 would have to be the black and beige wrap-round mini skirt a few pics down.

Is always good to gush and I absolutely ADORE these Camilla Skovgaard shoes in collaboration with Eudon Choi.

A firm favourite of mine is Georgia Hardinge who simply never fails to disappoint. I adore the variety of textures in her SS11 collection and absolutely love the ruffling and folding techniques, which see her moving away from the intense structure we saw last season, still experimenting with the form, creating an amazing silhouette. I've simply got to get myself the yellow dress, although might be a bit short on me...

Each season I'm always curious to see what J Smith Esquire will do and this season he has introduced the Mr Smith collection which features a variety of leather hats slashed with such precision that they come flat packed and look impeccable, which is rare for an - albeit high end - baseball cap.

Also in the Haynes PR room I found a couple of garments by Elliot Atkinson that I loved. Check out the beautiful grey and pink floral platforms below and also a black lace shirt complete with metallic points on the collar. Very Dallas!

Yet more beautiful shoes from the footwear legend, Nicholas Kirkwood.

With a soft spot for milliner Piers Atkinson's outlandish headwear I am always super-excited to see what he comes up with next and this time round I loved the 'Hollywood' look and really appreciated the sophisticated turn the collection has taken, making it a little less kitsch, but just as eye-catching.

I didn't think much of the manners, but I rather liked the wares on display from leather label, Rae Jones - especially the shoes which came in a variety of different colourways.

Atelier Swarovski shine for SS10

This season sees Atelier Swarovski launch their sixth luxury collection featuring exclusive, crystal jewellery and accessories designed in collaboration with four of the most talented, multi-disciplined designers working today.

Matthew Williamson:

Zaha Hadid:

Jason Wu:

Nicholas Kirkwood:

Images throughout courtesy of Atelier Swarovski

I'm sure you'll agree that the results are breath taking. Its a tough call but my favourite pieces would have to be Matthew Williamson's, due to the beautiful geometric designs and bold use of bright colour, which are bang on trend for this season. Zaha's jewellery designs are beautifully made, and whilst they're maybe a touch conceptual for my taste, I think they definitely stand out as great examples of design. I love the Wu and Kirkwood bib style necklaces too - truly spoilt for choice this SS10.

London Fashion Week Diary: Day Three

Today was a great day! Sincerely my best at LFW so far... I went to some great shows: Betty Jackson, Doii and Horace! I also caught lots of great presentations/ stands in the morning. A designer whose work I love is that of Georgia Hardinge... I mean check out these garments.... the structure, the textures... it was all too much, too good... I even got to meet the designer as well!

As their catwalk show was last night PPQ's AW10 collection also went into the static exhibition... check out the gold coat (really heavy) and the monogram print... very 80s if you ask me...

Nicholas Kirkwood shoes were also making their way back to Somerset house, pair by pair. These are all collabs he did with various designers for AW10, sadly I'm not sure which are which... I just know they're all beautiful!

Betty Jackson was immense... by far one of my favourite shows:

Didn't like this show at all... the most interesting thing about it was the models dyed hair... a great distraction from the sea of bland black!!

Doii was absolutely WONDERFUL- by far my favourite show so stay tuned for a long post on this later in the week...