Art-iculate: Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty

An exhibition on the other side of the pond that I’ve long been looking forward to both hearing and writing about finally opened on Wednesday; Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, which comprises the spring 2011 Costume Institute exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Alexander McQueen (British, 1969-2010). Dress, autumn/winter 2010. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph © Sølve Sundsbø / Art + Commerce

Celebrating McQueen’s career and design highlights, this retrospective of sorts spans from his Central Saint Martins postgraduate collection of 1992 - infamously snapped up by Isabella Blow - to his final catwalk presentation, which took place in Paris shortly after his death in February 2010. Paying particular attention to McQueen’s superior understanding of fashion beyond utility, this exhibition seeks to highlight his conceptual expression of culture, politics, and identity – which earned him international acclaim and reverence.

Alexander McQueen (British, 1969-2010). Ensemble, Plato’s Atlantis, spring/summer 2010. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph © Sølve Sundsbø / Art + Commerce

Located in the Metropolitan Museum’s second-floor Cantor Galleries, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty features approximately 100 ensembles and 70 accessories from McQueen’s prolific 19-year career. Borrowed primarily from the Alexander McQueen Archive here in London - a few select pieces from the Givenchy Archive in Paris are also included as well as covetable pieces held in private collections – stand-out pieces include the bumster trousers, the kimono jacket, and the three-point “origami” frock coat.

Gallery View – Romantic Nationalism, Highland Rape. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Much loved for his referencing of late 19th Century silhouettes and the odd 1950’s-inspired piece, McQueen’s technical ingenuity was his currency, earning him four awards as the British Fashion Council’s ‘Designer of the Year’ in 1996, 1997, 2001 and lastly in 2003. With no current plans to send this eagerly anticipated exhibition on tour, I defy anyone visiting New York before 31st July not to visit.

Fresh From The Production Line: Oliver Goldsmith

P. Oliver Goldsmith (pictured centre)

“I don’t believe in those theories about certain styles suiting certain shaped faces. Life is too short. If you find a shape you like, have it and never mind what anyone else thinks.” – Oliver Goldsmith, 1965.

Clippings of iconic coverage

A few weeks ago I was invited to the launch of the brand new sunglasses collection by Claire Goldsmith. Not knowing too much about the brand beforehand I was blown away by the West London store and showroom, charting the eponymous brand’s heritage and great legacy in high fashion. Worn by all of the supers, actresses and most popular rock stars alike, Goldsmith designs often graced the pages of Vogue making him synonymous with the world of celebrity and an arbiter of style.

Some of my favourite heritage styles (above and below)

Founded in 1926, P. Oliver Goldsmith was the first designer to view sunglasses as accessories in addition to being a tool to protect eyes from the sun – creating a series of innovative styles in the late ‘50s which were to make a bold fashion statement. Worn by the royalty and celebrities such as Audrey Hepburn (think big white oval frames), Michael Caine, Grace Kelly and Peter Sellers, Goldsmith pioneered an altogether new concept in eyewear being the first to create a range of winter sunglasses, and spearheading collaborations with high fashion houses such as Givenchy and Dior.

The polaroid wall of celebrities

Looking through the back catalogue of samples and trying on all of the iconic styles was a somewhat special experience, especially when I could see Polaroids of present day celebrities snapped in their favourite styles – making the whole shopping experience a glamorous affair for customers.

Some examples of classic styles (above)

Examples of the production process and a choice of acetates for custom-made pairs

What I love most about the brand is that it is - to this day - a family business with grand-daughter Claire at the helm since 2005, when she reintroduced some of Goldsmith’s most iconic frames taken from the private family archive. Since 2010, Claire has put her own stamp on the brand, creating seasonal capsule collections that play on the brand’s unique heritage, whilst establishing a fresh design aesthetic targeted towards a new generation.

Claire Goldsmith's newest collection

Of her collections Claire says: “I decided it was time to put my own mark on eyewear designs to see if I had what it took to create timeless, classic eyewear too... I hope CG (Claire Goldsmith) will be the vintage of the future.”

Ethical Fashion Show, Paris 2009 (written for Amelia's Magazine)

The dawning of October saw the fashion world descend on Paris to experience what is arguably the most highly anticipated of fashion weeks. With highly influential and renowned designers: Lanvin, Givenchy, and Chanel showcasing their collections for SS10, you would be forgiven for thinking that Paris was only about the ubiquitous fashion houses. Whilst the presence of big name designers and celebrities alike was a mathematical certainty, thankfully there was one big ethical reason to keep an eye on Paris...
To continue reading about the Ethical Fashion Show go to Amelia's Magazine.
Image coutresy of Studio Jux.