LFW Diary AW12: Orla Kiely

A key event in my LFW diary each season is the presentation of Orla Kiely. Opting to work in Somerset House’s Portico Rooms each season, it always amazes me what magic is worked on such a tight space. Whether it’s the cardboard cut-outs and cinema of SS11 or the pared back model presentation of AW11, there is always a set, props and beautifully dressed models on hand to wow.

This season was no exception seeing Kiely host a 1940s tea dance themed afternoon (with a subtle speakeasy vibe) complete with a live band, afternoon tea and champagne, where visitors could sit at round tables – covered in decadent lace tablecloths and candles – adjacent to the dance-floor for the best views of the action – waltzing.

 

 A melting pot of textures, Kiely’s newest collection reflects her trademark design aesthetic and heritage in print, pairing iconic silhouettes with a delicious autumnal colour palette of burgundys, golds and creams.

LFW Diary SS12: Orla Kiely

 

 

LFW SS11 Diary: Orla Kiely

The queen of kitsch print (who’s nearest rival - if of course we had to pin one down - would be Cath Kidston), wowed once again with an eye-catching presentation in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House on the inaugural day of LFW SS11.

Last season we saw models premiering the AW10 collection delicately rotating around the very same space; however this year Orla Kiely enlisted the help of several oversized cardboard cut-outs to create something slightly edgy, unexpected – and I’m guessing, a little more cost effective.

A great icon of design it’s hard to believe that in just ten short years Kiely has become a huge household name producing fashion and accessories in addition to homeware and perfumes for her eponymous brand.

With a beautiful collection of tea dresses and shifts in beautiful florals and iconic 60’s cut outs and shapes, this collection is one of Kiely’s strongest yet, affording her customers the chance to really step into her world – hinting at twin sets and demure cover-ups, typical of the era she has transported back into the populous. With a hardback book entitled Pattern out next month, this season you can find out all you need to know about Kiely’s empire (from prints to techniques), and better yet, what inspires this Irish maverick.

As with any Great British legend, they receive numerous offers to cross collaborate in the form of branding products in other fields. Following this trend, the obligatory collaboration with a car manufacturer has come to the fore, so as Sir Paul Smith lent his signature stripes to Mini, Kiely has lent her iconic 60’s inspired logo to Citroën’s DS3.

To keep visitors entertained there was a mini cinema booth placed in the centre of the presentation space, complete with plush velvet curtains and eight standard cinema seats, and two pin-up styled stewards daintily handing out popcorn. The short film, From London With Love by Gia Coppola, was played on a loop depicting models in what appeared to be an informed nod to swinging sixties London – perfectly encapsulating the unique aesthetic for which Kiely is now renowned.

AW10 Press Days: Part Five B

At the Relative Mo press day last week I fell head over heels in love with Louise Goldin's AW10 collection. I loved the padding effect, especially in leather - amazing!

 

I didn't think I was really that big a fan of Julien Macdonald as I've found his last few collections a bit hit and miss, but hoorah... this collection I love. I really liked the equestrian inspired jackets and the uber chunky knits, with my favourite pieces being the knitted string vest tops.

A new designer to me was Duro Olowu, whose prints were to die for. I enjoyed every piece in he collection, especially how all of the prints clashed so majorly - exactly my kind of styling!

As reported during LFW, Orla Kiely's AW10 collection was simply divine. For the upcoming season there were luxurious and overtly feminine pieces a plenty. I loved the buttoned-down understated feel of the collection - right up my street!

Great boots from the master that is Galliano. I especially liked his take on the brother creeper, and I'm certain these knee-highs will be on every celebrity worth their salt in the coming months.

DIOR 

 

For me Nathan Jenden's collection was one of the best showcased at the Relative Mo press day! I absolutely adored this bright dress embellished with plectrums - so original and creative. I'm very much looking forward to calling this in for photoshoots in the coming months.

Yet another designer whom I wasn't too familiar with was Aitor Throup, but I loved the way in which he displayed his collections very simply, utilizing the rails available, but setting his collection apart wonderfully.