LCF class of 2011 BA Design and Technology catwalk show

Images throughout courtesy of Alex Maguire

Last night I attended the LCF class of 2011 BA Design and Technology catwalk show held at the new sprawling LCF showspace The Studio, in Paddington. A bit of a trek west, I was worried I wouldn’t make it in time, however as it turned out my arrival was perfectly timed and I had the opportunity to catch up with one of my former university lecturers, Tony Glenville (now LCF Creative Director, School of Media + Communication), before taking my back row seat, before being bumped to the frow (due to no-shows).

Featuring presentations from 25 groundbreaking designers (from a combination of Womenswear, Menswear and Surface Textiles courses), the innovation displayed was breathtaking and surpassed all of my expectations – with each annual show consistently smashing through the ceiling of previous successes. Packing a socker-punch straight to the kleptomaniac and magpie regions of my brain, every collection had its strengths and intriguing elements, with no designers taking the easy route, each creating a myriad of layers and displaying exquisite attention to detail that resulted in the most superior design execution and innovation I’ve seen in London for a long time.

Taking pride of place in the frow was BFC chairman Harold Tillman and continued LCF supporters Jodie Harsh and Jo Wood, whom I’ve seen at numerous shows over the years. Other celebs dotted around included the legendary Barbara Hulanicki, model Daisy de Villeneuve and one of the most influential women in fashion, Jane Shepherdson.

Featuring models discovered through LCF Loves - an open street casting which aimed to find unique individuals who reflect the diversity of this year’s collections - I was really impressed by the level of ethnic diversity on the catwalk across both womenswear and menswear. It’s of my personal opinion that the African male models really brought a different edge (not seen in other shows), and reminded me of some of the beautiful models favoured by Simon Foxton in the early i-D days.

Reflecting fashions from near enough every era imaginable, I felt that each and every student was a winner, however as is always the case there could only be three winners on the night.

Barnett Lawson Award for the best use of trimmings - Charlotte Barry (22):
Hailing from Liverpool Barry was praised for her incredible detailing and superior use of embellishment and trimmings in a year where every designer went for broke. Reminiscent of Mary Katrantzou’s beautiful SS11 collection, Barry utilised tassel shoulder detailing to create perfect proportions. My pick for this award, Barry sampled beautiful brocades in rich golds, with appliqué and a delight of trimmings and embellishments reading like a master-class in Asian textiles. Perfectly completing the ethereally styled looks were stacked textured bangles to match the dresses and mock-croc effect shoes also embellished.

Biddle Sawyers Silks Award for innovative use of fabrics - Stine Riis (28):
Hailing from Copenhagen, Denmark Riis was celebrated for her innovative use of silk with wool, chiffon and patent leather. With an array of stunning blue, white and green pieces I feel Riis would be perfect for a Milan fashion house, with each of her garments made with such precision and attention to detail that they reminded me of Miu Miu and Celine under the helm of Phoebe Philo.

Collection of the Year - Wun Wun Nova Chiu (24):
Originally from Hong Kong, Chiu was judged to have phenomenal technical skill and creative flair by the panel. On my note pad, upon seeing this collection, the first words I wrote were ‘jingle, jingle’ as small (but loud), silver bells featured heavily throughout the collection. Brightly dyed furs dominated, coupled with the most intriguing tribal inspired headdresses. Beads, plait detailing and of course bells, were a signature appearing everywhere including on beautiful two-tone platform sandals.

Stay tuned for another LCF post later in the week with details of my (other) favourite designers from the showcase, who sadly missed out on the awards.

‘When You’re a Boy: Men’s Fashion styled by Simon Foxton’

 Yesterday I found myself at one of my favourite spaces, The Photographer’s gallery in Ramillies street, W1. I was there not a week earlier hoping desperately that there were still tickets available for the Simon Foxton lecture which took place on Tuesday. Unfortunately no tickets were returned, so I popped in again yesterday to console myself with his bold and exuberant images.

A retrospective of sorts ‘When You’re a Boy: Men’s Fashion styled by Simon Foxton’ looks back at his iconic styling career to date and its influence over men’s fashion since the early 1980s. This fantastic show illustrates how much of an authority Foxton has been on men’s fashion over the decades and how his work has changed attitudes towards both male subject photography and men’s fashion styling.

Whilst not at all unheard of, I think it is a great honour for the Photographer’s Gallery to celebrate a stylist and champion the clear influence they have and apply to each and every image they create. Working with equally as iconic photographer’s Jason Evans, Alasdair McLellan and the master Nick Knight, ‘When You’re a Boy: Men’s Fashion styled by Simon Foxton’ highlights his most powerful images which featured in publications ranging from i-D and The Face to and Arena Homme Plus and GQ Style.

Focusing purely on men’s fashion and the male as the subject for the past 25 years, Foxton’s body of work has clearly changed and redirected attitudes towards mainstream fashion image making, and has consistently challenged society’s notions of masculinity. Having been a contributor to the creative force that gave birth to Youth Culture, Foxton was at the forefront when he joined i-D in 1984 pushing the boundaries and exploring subcultures such as Punk and Rave. Foxton’s most widely explored subject is that of Gay subculture, subtly interweaving hints of homo-eroticism through much of his early styling to produce a new concept in men’s fashion.

What I love most about Foxton’s body of work is the clear continuity and loyalty to his subject that has kept his work both relevant and ground breaking throughout his career. What inspires me most about each and every one of his images is that they embody the feeling of a time and a place and give the sense that they were a part of something much bigger. Another factor which I believe can be attributed to Foxton’s success is the fervent energy that jumps of the pages in magazines and whether he is styling editorial or advertising the reader is left wanting more. It’s this passion and energy which shines through for me and I feel it is unrivalled.

I’d highly recommend this exhibition to anyone who professes their love of fashion as it is a must.

‘When You’re a Boy: Men’s Fashion styled by Simon Foxton’ is showing for FREE until 4th October.

Image courtesy of the Photographer's gallery website.