Brand Of The Week: Yingzhi Luo

Images courtesy of LCF and Yingzhi Luo

The last designer on my list of those to rave about from the LCF Loves show over a month ago is Yingzhi Luo or Chi Chi. Once again a nomadic theme shone through with a kaleidoscope of colour creating beautiful movements as the models sashayed down the catwalk. With acute attention to detail, and a plethora of plaits and beads featuring heavily; guests were excited (and scared in equal measures) by a variety of white pleated tribal masks, complete with beaded hair.

One of the most exciting designers to graduate from the Womenswear Technology BA course, Chi Chi is a finalist of of the WGSN Global Fashion Awards 2011 in the category of ‘Most Creative Student Collection’, a finalist of Nina De York Fashion Illustration Competition 2011, and has even been named as one of the ‘best fashion graduates of 2011′ by UK Vogue.

With an enthralling SS11 collection inspired by a trip to Tibet and China in 2010, Chi Chi based her colour palette on photographs, taken throughout her journey. The resulting colours are bright, vivid, and exude energy, which is symbolic of Tibetan people's kindness, boldness, faith and passion for their religion.

Utilising a variety of hand-dying techniques, frayed fabrics, plaits and beading embellishments, silhouettes are loose and breathable, reflecting the traditional shapes of Tibetan dress. With luxurious draped fabrics such as silk chiffon and silk jersey, layers have never looked so cool and casual.

Also inspired by Tibetan women's braided hair, Chic Chi translated this idea on to her clothing by developing complicated handcraft techniques such as macramé and knotting, finishing the macramé with coloured wooden beads, which symbolise the beautiful Buddha prayer beadhes.

Brand Of The Week: Yumiko Isa

Having just graduated from a Fashion Design Technology, Surface Textiles BA this summer, Yumiko Isa is yet another of the extremely talented designers at the LCF Class of 2011 show, who caught my eye.

Images throughout courtesy of Yumiko Isa/ LCF and Catwalking. The above are photographed by Christopher Moore

Debuting the AW11 collection at The Studio at the beginning of last month, Isa’s offering is inspired by traditional Japanese kimono with Balenciaga's dramatic design from the 1950s, moulded into an altogether unique aesthetic. Entitled ‘the beauty of blank’ which is inspired by the phrase “less is more”, the capsule collection displays an artful combination of simplicity and femininity, illustrated perfectly for me in the beautiful woollen two tone gloves (my favourite of which are the cream and navy blue colourway) that reached above the elbow.

The above are photographed by Sean Michael

Deftly using a combination of high quality yarns and a wide range of knitting techniques such as felting and brushing, models were bound like mummies in a plethora of delicate and light-weight knits, taking tiny steps in their restrictive garments. Adopting a shuffle, reminiscent of high security prisoners, secured in invisible wrist and ankle cuffs, the models walked slowly allowing the audience ample time to inspect their clothing.

The above and first block below are photographed by Sean Michael

Whilst restrictive, Isa’s wearable collection uses twisted, knotted and folded details to create garments that look both unique and sophisticated. The gradated colours taken from kimono patterns are mixed with special yarns such as elastic mohair and angora mix fine lambs wool, bringing a tactile and richly soft elegance to the pieces.

With finishing details such as shiny bin liner looking lurex used as underskirts and hand-made accessories such as head pieces Isa’s debut was the perfect combination of understated, experimental and successful design that I’ve come to expect from LCF graduates.

LCF class of 2011 BA Design and Technology catwalk show

Images throughout courtesy of Alex Maguire

Last night I attended the LCF class of 2011 BA Design and Technology catwalk show held at the new sprawling LCF showspace The Studio, in Paddington. A bit of a trek west, I was worried I wouldn’t make it in time, however as it turned out my arrival was perfectly timed and I had the opportunity to catch up with one of my former university lecturers, Tony Glenville (now LCF Creative Director, School of Media + Communication), before taking my back row seat, before being bumped to the frow (due to no-shows).

Featuring presentations from 25 groundbreaking designers (from a combination of Womenswear, Menswear and Surface Textiles courses), the innovation displayed was breathtaking and surpassed all of my expectations – with each annual show consistently smashing through the ceiling of previous successes. Packing a socker-punch straight to the kleptomaniac and magpie regions of my brain, every collection had its strengths and intriguing elements, with no designers taking the easy route, each creating a myriad of layers and displaying exquisite attention to detail that resulted in the most superior design execution and innovation I’ve seen in London for a long time.

Taking pride of place in the frow was BFC chairman Harold Tillman and continued LCF supporters Jodie Harsh and Jo Wood, whom I’ve seen at numerous shows over the years. Other celebs dotted around included the legendary Barbara Hulanicki, model Daisy de Villeneuve and one of the most influential women in fashion, Jane Shepherdson.

Featuring models discovered through LCF Loves - an open street casting which aimed to find unique individuals who reflect the diversity of this year’s collections - I was really impressed by the level of ethnic diversity on the catwalk across both womenswear and menswear. It’s of my personal opinion that the African male models really brought a different edge (not seen in other shows), and reminded me of some of the beautiful models favoured by Simon Foxton in the early i-D days.

Reflecting fashions from near enough every era imaginable, I felt that each and every student was a winner, however as is always the case there could only be three winners on the night.

Barnett Lawson Award for the best use of trimmings - Charlotte Barry (22):
Hailing from Liverpool Barry was praised for her incredible detailing and superior use of embellishment and trimmings in a year where every designer went for broke. Reminiscent of Mary Katrantzou’s beautiful SS11 collection, Barry utilised tassel shoulder detailing to create perfect proportions. My pick for this award, Barry sampled beautiful brocades in rich golds, with appliqué and a delight of trimmings and embellishments reading like a master-class in Asian textiles. Perfectly completing the ethereally styled looks were stacked textured bangles to match the dresses and mock-croc effect shoes also embellished.

Biddle Sawyers Silks Award for innovative use of fabrics - Stine Riis (28):
Hailing from Copenhagen, Denmark Riis was celebrated for her innovative use of silk with wool, chiffon and patent leather. With an array of stunning blue, white and green pieces I feel Riis would be perfect for a Milan fashion house, with each of her garments made with such precision and attention to detail that they reminded me of Miu Miu and Celine under the helm of Phoebe Philo.

Collection of the Year - Wun Wun Nova Chiu (24):
Originally from Hong Kong, Chiu was judged to have phenomenal technical skill and creative flair by the panel. On my note pad, upon seeing this collection, the first words I wrote were ‘jingle, jingle’ as small (but loud), silver bells featured heavily throughout the collection. Brightly dyed furs dominated, coupled with the most intriguing tribal inspired headdresses. Beads, plait detailing and of course bells, were a signature appearing everywhere including on beautiful two-tone platform sandals.

Stay tuned for another LCF post later in the week with details of my (other) favourite designers from the showcase, who sadly missed out on the awards.