LFW diary SS12: FAD

Each season (AW10, SS11) the primary highlight of my LFW isn’t the ultra glamorous shows, the press lounge or after parties, instead it’s the FAD show which usually always takes places at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the last day of the women’s schedule. With SS12 being no different, creative charity FAD put on a corker of a show with all of the 25 talented teenagers from London and Manchester, putting on a great display of youth talent.

2011 FAD JUNIOR AWARDS Winner_Sabine Bindere

Now in its seventh year, the Fashion Futures initiative aims to provide teenagers with a realistic insight into what it means to work in the creative industries. FAD encourages hands on experience and uses fashion as a tool to develop vocational and professional skills, helping disengaged teenagers get on track in both their professional and personal lives.
Unfortunately there can only be one winner. Originally selected from 100 young people who participated in FAD’s Fashion Futures 2 workshops earlier this year, the 25 finalists spent a week at the FAD Summer School, held at the University of East London. Supported by a team of tutors and student mentors, the 16 – 19 year olds had only 5 days in which to construct their designs for the catwalk final.

At last month’s show and award presentation 17-year-old Sabine Bindere, from Barking + Dagenham College earned the top accolade. Praised by the industry judging panel for its edgy wearability, Sabine’s double hooded dress featured a unique graffiti paint print created by the designer herself, earning her a two week design placement with FAD retail partner George at Asda.

2011 FAD JUNIOR AWARDS Runner-up_Yasemin Cakli

Runner-up, and winner of a two week placement with Marks + Spencer, was 17-year-old Yasemin Cakli from City + Islington College for her fluoro orange jumpsuit and print trimmed plastic cape. Two additional awards were also presented on the evening to Gemma Halliwell, 17, from Bury College (Manchester) for Commercial Design and Francesca Espinosa-Baster, 18 from St.Philomena’s Catholic School for Girls (South London) for Innovative Design + Cut.

LFW Diary SS12: VFS

 

LFW diary SS12: Malene Oddershede Bach

A designer I came across at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition, I fell in love with the bold and daring colour palette of Malene Oddershede Bach. Presenting an intriguing collection of what appeared to be cell prints; I was really impressed by Malene’s vision and strong brand identity.

Having just launched her label for SS12, as part of VFS’s Ones To Watch, Malene’s collection draws inspiration from the sensation of loss and the feeling of unfulfillment mixed with the psychedelic films of Gaspar Noe and David Cronenberg.

A mixture of vibrant acid hues; ‘dark fuschia, luminous yellow and vivacious turquoise’, a variety or organism inspired prints peppered the collection; the intestines of a mouse and the scales on a butterfly’s wing.

With a plethora of deft techniques under her belt, such as the beautiful two-way pleating of silk georgette, hand-knitting and pieces comprised of more than 25 metres of fabric, Malene’s is possibly the most exciting new brand I discovered at LFW.

With beautiful touches such as embossed leather tags, intricate layering, unusual cuts and bright prints, Malene’s eponymous brand certainly stands out from the crowd. Don't even get me started on the amazing shoes!

LFW Diary SS11 Highlights: Vauxhall Fashion Scout Exhibition

The LFW schedule was so tight this season, I truthfully didn't expect that I'd have time to visit the VFS exhibition, although an opportunity afforded itself when one of the shows ran really late. The first designer who caught my eye was Martina Spetlova as I loved her shapes and colours. Most interesting was her unrivalled use of zips - brilliant for trans-seasonal dressing.

A designer I fell in love with was Edward Finney who honed his expert tailoring skills on Saville Row, and has since fused them with cutting-edge techniques to make amazing and somewhat eccentric womenswear. Brimming with the most luxurious brocades and silks, the SS11 collection is inspired by exotic dancer, courtesan and spy Mata Hari and draws on influences from Ancient Egypt and Paris in the 1920s. A truly great collection and having been nominated for this year's Fashion Fringe, Finney is most certainly one to watch.

Another quirky young designer whom I loved is Charlotte Taylor. So simple, yet so effective, I absolutely loved Charlotte's orange robot print, applying her signature stamp throughout the collection. If I had to pick, my favourite garments would be the two pairs of shorts pictured below.

A label I hadn't previously heard of, I loved the linen pieces by Ong.

Last but by no means least, I really admired the accessories on display from Yorkshire Pearl. As someone who loves buttons and little trinkets, these pieces are perfect for me and I think they'd add a healthy dose of drama to any photo shoot.

LFW Diary SS11: F.A.D

Much like last season, one of the highlights of my LFW was the F.A.D show (organised by creative charity (Fashion Awareness Direct), a not-for-profit organisation supporting young people to bridge the gap between education and the fashion industry. Working tirelessly to educate young people in the community (typically aged between 16-19), F.A.D offer a series of fashion workshops to equip their members with the skills and knowledge to go on to pursue a career in fashion.

Monday night saw the catwalk show that was the culmination of and marks six years of the Fashion Futures 2 project, an initiative which has seen F.A.D. work with over 650 teenagers. Heavily supported by industry, this project gives professionals an opportunity to reach out to young people, volunteering their time and expertise through practical workshops and industry days, held on weekends during the summer holidays.

Originally selected from 130 young people, twenty-four teenagers from inner-city London and Manchester showcased garments that they designed and constructed in just five days - inspired by the V&A’s Medieval and Renaissance galleries – at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, awarding them a unique opportunity to showcase their work to press, friends and family during London Fashion Week.

Presented in a much simpler format this season, each of the twenty-four designers showcased one garment, with several developing their own take on the themes of new luxury and craftsmanship, creating eye-catching, modern and fashion-forward evening wear and even red carpet inspired dresses, complete with edgy detailing in an opulent colour palette of rich greys, regal purples and luscious greens.

With designer Zandra Rhodes and retailers M&S, River Island and John Lewis taking front row seats the atmosphere before the awards were announced was tense. In what proved to be the closest competition yet, in addition to the main prize, three runner-up awards were also announced by Lucy Jones, Director of Fashion Textiles at the University of East London – where the summer workshops are held.

A night of triumph for the boys, 18 year-old Andre Augusto (of Hampstead School, Camden) was presented with the Creative Pattern Cutting Award for his sculptural blue and black design.

*Award for Creative Pattern Cutting_Andre Augusto_Hampstead School, Camden

“I think it’s amazing that there is F.A.D. I have never heard of any other charity that does something like this, especially within the fashion industry. I think it really puts young people out there, I’m really happy that I’ve come this far.” – Andre Augusto.

*Award for Commercial Innovation_Karmen-Marie Parker_St Angela's & St. Bonaventure's 6th Form, Newham

In a heart-warming display of genuine surprise, a delighted Karmen-Marie Parker, 17 (of St. Angela’s & St. Bonaventure’s 6th Form, Newham) burst into tears on hearing she had won the Award for Commercial Innovation.

*Award for Research_Sarah Kilkenny_Ashton 6th Form College, Tameside

Sarah Kilkenny (of Ashton 6th Form College, Tameside) narrowly missed out on the top prize, coming in as the third runner-up of the evening, presented with the Research Award for her sophisticated sketchbook work and illustrations which saw her create a beautiful short burgundy gown, with a halter-neck rope detail strap.

*2010 F.A.D. Junior Award Winner_David Short, Lewisham College

For the main prize, David Short became the first boy in the history of the F.A.D Junior Awards to be crowned the overall winner. The stunned 17 year-old from Lewisham College took to the catwalk with his model to celebrate winning a coveted design placement with London-based designers, Religion. His emerald green dress won unanimous approval from this year’s industry jury, combining Medieval and Renaissance luxury with Mad Men inspired elegance.

*2010 F.A.D. Junior Awards_Adam Preece

Three other designers who I felt deserve a special mention are Adam Preece (of Tameside College, Tameside); who produced a simple grey shift with an oversized printed bib detail depicting Mary in the traditional setting of a stained-glass window (I think my favourite of the 24 garments).

*2010 F.A.D. Junior Awards_Sinead Cloonan

Sinead Cloonan (of City and Islington College, Islington); who created a triple tiered structured grey dress (reminiscent of a Roland Mouret design) with crystal shoulder embellishments and Naomi Dorton (of Lewisham College, Lewisham); who created a beautiful royal blue velvet halter-neck dress complete with a rope tassel belt.

*2010 F.A.D. Junior Awards_Naomi Dorton

*All images courtesy of F.A.D.

Random structure on Kingsway

Earlier today (or yesterday) I stumbled across this bizarre crumbling building when walking between VFS and the BFC tents at Somerset House.