Showing posts with label Joan Crawford. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Joan Crawford. Show all posts

Thursday, 14 July 2011

Hollywood Legends

Viewing the preview of the NPG Glamour of the Gods: Hollywood Portraits exhibition last week got me thinking about my favourite actors and actresses:
Rita Hayworth by Robert Coburn, 1946
 
Jean Harlow by George Hurrell, 1935
 Charlie Chaplin and Jackie Coogan by Ruth Harriet Louise, 1921
 Marilyn Monroe by Ernest A. Bachrach, 1952
 Buster Keaton by Ruth Harriet Louise, 1929
 Ginger Rodgers and Fred Astaire by Robert Coburn
 Joan Crawford by George Hurrell, 1934
Veronica Lake by George Hurrell, 1942

Wednesday, 13 July 2011

Art-iculate: Glamour of the Gods - Hollywood Portraits

Marlon Brando for Streetcar Named Desire, 1950 by John Engstead © John Kobal Foundation, 2011
Last Wednesday I went down to the National Portrait Gallery to view the iconic new exhibition, Glamour of the Gods: Hollywood Portraits. As a massive fan of the Golden Age of cinema (as I’m sure I’ve mentioned countless times), this exhibition is an amazing catalogue in who’s who of Hollywood heavyweights, and featured all of my favourite legends; from the smouldering Rita Hayworth as Gilda (1946), Marlon Brando for Streetcar Named Desire (1950, pictured above), Joan Crawford for Grand Hotel (1932), and Charlie Chaplin for The Kid (1921).
Louise Brooks, 1929 by Eugene Robert Richee © John Kobal Foundation, 2011
All taken from the John Kobal Foundation, this breathtaking exhibition features over 70 vintage photographs (mainly in black and white), spanning over 40 years (roughly 1920-60). With nearly 40 photographers work on display (mainly that of studio photographers), including Clarence Sinclair Bull, Laszlo Willinger, Bob Coburn and Ruth Harriet Louise, the most iconic images to my eye included glossy portraits of screen sirens; Norma Shearer, Veronica Lake, Jean Harlow and Joan Crawford all by the master, George Hurrell.
Marlene Dietrich on the set of Manpower, 1941 by Laszlo Willinger © John Kobal Foundation, 2011
The exhibition shows both iconic and previously unseen studio portraits of legends such as Clark Gable, Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Loretta Young, and Carole Lombard among others. These portraits are shown alongside film scene stills (often used for posters and lobby cards), including Lillian Gish for The Wind, Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers for Swing Time and James Dean for Rebel without a Cause. The most controversial images I saw were of a relatively unknown Marilyn Monroe circa 1949; whose nudes shot by Tom Kelly made it into the inaugural issue of Playboy in 1953, causing much outrage, for the now famous Hollywood startlet.
Clark Gable and Joan Crawford for Dancing Lady, 1933 by George Hurrell © John Kobal Foundation, 2011
The film studios in Hollywood between 1920 and 1960 exercised an extraordinary level of control over the imagery of the stars they represented. The portraits they released to the public and press depicted the actors as glamorous and inaccessible, imbuing them with mystique, perpetuating the myth of screen gods and goddesses. These archive images depict a time before paparazzi, and these photographs distributed by the studios were the only vehicle of connection between stars and fans. Thousands of photographs would be sent out worldwide by the studios both to fans and to the best-selling publications.
John Kobal (1940-1991 – whose foundation provided all of the images on display) was a collector and author who methodically sought to understand the role of photography in the making of a Hollywood legend. He began collecting film photographs in the 1950s, visiting Los Angeles frequently when many of the major studios were being bought by corporations who cared little for preserving the history of the film industry.

At first his interest was solely in the stars and their films but his interest began to shift to the photographers behind the portraits, many of whom were still alive and accessible at this time. Kobal tracked down the surviving members of the circle of great Hollywood photographers and through a series of major exhibitions and books sought to attain for them the recognition they deserved. As a result, the significance of the Hollywood photographers is now widely acknowledged for their contribution to both the film industry and twentieth century photographic portraiture.
Glamour of the Gods: Hollywood Portraits is showing until 23 October.

Wednesday, 23 February 2011

LFW Diary AW11: Eun Jeong

In the heart of the famed Covent Garden Piazza for the second season in a row, the 2008 Fashion Fringe Award winner, Eun Jeong held her AW11 showcase with breathtaking results. As we waited for the second showing to start late on Friday afternoon, guests were more than happy to examine our Kipling and Cosmetic á la Carte goody bags whilst absent-mindedly tapping our feet to a variety of delightful speakeasy tunes which really set the scene and gave me instant visions of the latter years of the hot new HBO drama Boardwalk Empire. It was a pleasure to see the talented and serenely beautiful Iraina Mancini (of former pop group Mancini fame), manning the decks, and as we went to school together it was lovely to catch up after the show and hear all about her hot new band and plans for 2011 – all I can say is watch this space!
As the lights dimmed and the show began, we were treated to an artful collision of Jeong's modern and timeless aesthetic, emphatically displaying the designer's love of her craft – evident in her intuitive fabric choices and refusal to stray from her signature draping. Taking 30's tailoring and embellishment as her inspiration, Jeong deftly discovered ways of resurrecting the classic minimal silhouette, which originally came to international prominence with stars of the silver screen such as Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford wearing minimalist fashion in Hollywood.
Iraina Mancini
With an emphasis on neck lines and sexy structured bodices, Jeong's garments embodied a sense of empowerment rarely seen in a designer so young. Beautifully crafted intricate airy pleating combined with an unexpected injection of colour in the form of striking Art Deco prints created a look just as relevant in the 30's as it is today, some 80 years later. Simply blocked base colours of nude, beige and black were cleverly mixed with vintage gold and cold grey shades to create an air of elegant and youthful femininity. Offering a variety of textures and an assortment of skirt lengths to rival any high spec prêt-a-porter collection, Jeong perfectly encapsulates the spirit of 30's tailoring with this bankruptcy inducing collection, appealing to the modern working woman.

A genuinely great show and an amazing collection, I loved the little details such as lace and embroidered underskirts, hip bustles and who could forget the beautiful linear print that featured on the invitation and heavily throughout the collection – most noticeably on printed colour pop silk scarves worn in the models’ hair. Accessorizing with super-skinny belts and an assortment of black knee-high boots from Dune, it was little touches such as vintage inspired leather driving gloves by Sermoneta that really offset Jeong's period designs. Soft curls by Lock On Ego added to the drama as did seductive and smoky eyes by Cosmetic á La Carte. All in all, an incredible display of staggering attention to detail and genuine raw talent making this one of my top three shows of the season.