LFW Diary AW12: Jennifer Morris

 

Graduating just last year, Jennifer Morris is a designer I was drawn to at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition debuting her eponymous label with a collection entitled 'The order of uncertainty'.

Combining a unique sense of colour and texture, the collection is inspired by the chaos theory and fractal geometry, paying particular attention to the 'quintessentially chaotic system of weather and the holistic essence of nature'.

Wowing with a variety of rainbow coloured tassel embellishments, each garment is hand-embroidered, dyed and finished, creating a demi-couture element. Having had her MA collection featured in the likes of Grazia, The Guardian and Harper's Bazaar, Jennifer Morris is the true definition of a designer 'to watch'.

LFW Diary SS12: Kirsty Ward

A designer I met last season at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Kirsty Ward’s exhibition space at Somerset House in September was neatly tucked towards the end of the main exhibition at an adjacent stand to her boyfriend’s, David Longshaw.

Reworking and building upon her full debut collection, SS12 sees Ward explore her fascination with sheer fabrics further, incorporating more of her eye-catching jewellery directly into her designs as rather weighty embellishments.

Working with neon and neoprene, the collection features suspended layers of blue organza cut-out and joined with delicate brass chains, a plethora of metal hooks and rivets galore. Incorporating body-con lingerie into her repertoire for the inaugural time (in collaboration with underwear label Mint Siren), Ward’s SS12 offering evokes a sensual mood and silhouette harking back to the 1960s.

Combining the aesthetics of sport and luxury, Ward’s beautiful garments are definitely on the experimental side, in the sense that there is no way you can blend into the crowd in one of her quirky signature designs.

Collaborating with Swarovski, larger-than-life necklaces feature heavily as do a multitude of coloured chains casually draped over cotton dresses and sheer tops.

LFW Diary AW11: Kirsty Ward

A designer I was really looking forward to seeing at Blow PR's Ones To Watch on the inaugural day of LFW, I was sad to have missed seeing the hotly tipped Kirsty Ward make her mark on the international fashion stage. Unluckily I queued too late and didn't get into the show, but luckily Ward also exhibited with Vauxhall Fashion Scout, where I managed to meet her and obtain a close-up of her inspired AW11 collection a couple of days later.

As dramatic, unique and groundbreaking as I'd hoped, Ward's designs are a vision of sculptured brilliance, breathtakingly playing on the structure of the silhouette, harnessing a clear penchant for boned, textured clothing, that was also highly visible in her debut. Having graduated from an MA in womenswear at CSM a couple of years ago, Ward was instantly whisked off to Italy to join Alberta Feretti’s design team, where she stayed for a year and a half. After founding her eponymous label in 2010, Ward has gone from strength to strength designing jewellery for David Longshaw’s AW10 collection and of course debuting with her own SS11 collection last September.

Focusing on her striking and complex costume jewellery, Ward uses this as the starting point for her fashion collections, taking inspiration for AW11 from images of both funny women and chairs. A designer’s designer, Ward loves to make garments that she would want to wear herself, which for me is the benchmark of a true designer – reflecting your own taste and aesthetic being paramount. With a muted earth colour palette of black ash, snow and lava shades, I’m thoroughly impressed with Ward’s collection, emphatically proving to up-and-coming designers that unique practices are the way forward if you want to achieve this kind of maga-watt result.

LFW Diary AW11: Krystof Strozyna

For the second season on the trot I was pleased as punch to be in the front row for Krystof Strozyna's AW11 salon showcase. A master of muted colour blocking, beige dominated the Vauxhall Fashion Scout catwalk, with beautiful accents of petrol blue and turquoise fiercely juxtaposed with acid orange hues – making Strozyna's collection anything but boring.

A designer whom I like to refer to as a master of print and cut, draping was the order of the day at Krystof Strozyna, resulting in a beautiful array of chic dresses with separate panels of bright colour and differing luxe textures.

With a subtle nod to possible fashions of the future I loved little details like spike heels, chunky metal bracelets and metallic ankle cuffs which accentuated all of the trousers – something I'll be looking forward to experimenting with later in the year! With rather plain centre parted hair in ponytails and minimal make-up in the form of heavily iced eyes, Strozyna kept it simple and chic, letting the collection do all of the talking – and talk to me it did!

LFW Diary AW11: Angela Cassidy

After watching the lovely Jazzkatze do what she does best at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on Sunday, the emerging design talent platform's director (Martyn Robert), was on hand to direct press and buyers upstairs to view an unscheduled static presentation by Angela Cassidy – which proved to be a lovely surprise. A new designer on my radar, I was really impressed by Cassidy's use of what I can only describe as a bleak colour palette (think oat, snow and earth shades), deftly compensating with outstanding technical design in knitwear.

Complimentary pink champagne in hand, I viewed the Scottish designer's third collection and could instantly see why she's won such coveted industry awards as 2010 Textile Brand of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards. Taking her inspiration from nature this season, Cassidy's AW11 collection explores contoured landscapes, cloud formations and water with wondrous effect.

Exploring the very structure of fabric, Cassidy cleverly opted for clean and simple silhouettes delivering an elegant knitting collective, showcasing variations in weight and technique to produce highly wearable pieces that will work wonders as the base of a capsule wardrobe. Beautifully textured cashmere staples were commonplace as were panelled luxury sweaters and overtly feminine pieces. With visible seams and patchwork like garment construction, Cassidy's is as transparent a collection you're likely to find, where what you see is genuinely what you get.

LFW Diary SS11: Krystof Strozyna

A label I wasn’t overly familiar with, on Tuesday evening I attended the Krystof Strozyna SS11 fashion show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Not really knowing what to expect, the show opened with a short film depicting a stunning model eating flowers with great aplomb.

No sooner than the film had started, guests were treated to a multitude of meticulously draped nudes, flesh tone lace dresses and leggings akin to body-stockings, a result of the extreme body-con shapes shown, filtering down the catwalk in quick succession.

Clean silhouettes, graphic cuts and oversized wooden jewellery were a few trademarks of Krystof Strozyna present on his SS11 catwalk – or so I learned. With this being his sixth eponymous collection, Strozyna built upon his favourite themes, focusing on subtle nature-inspired prints, adding serious sex appeal to his hourglass silhouette.

Contrasting chiffon was draped and inserted into panels of fitted dresses, with sheer panelling present in full length trousers, visible from knee to ankle, adding a very tame fetishist appeal. With a timid colour palette of creamy violet, mint green and diluted fuchsia, this is a collection sure to hit the spot next season.

LFW SS11 Diary: Lako Bukia

Rather excitingly yesterday saw the inaugural catwalk show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for Lako Bukia. Having followed her career for the past few seasons and attending her AW10 Fashion Mavericks show, I was happy to see Bukia take to a larger stage, as she has more than enough talent to fill it.

As the show was running slightly behind schedule I had a look in the exhibition upstairs (details to follow soon) and headed back to the catwalk space only to resume queuing behind none other than Janice Dickinson (search Twitter for my unkind comments about her appearance). So with Janice in the front row I was expecting great things and was far from disappointed – especially after seeing Bukia’s trademark shoes.

Inspired by Soviet Union architecture, and particularly the block buildings which remain in her native Georgia, Bukia’s SS11 collection, Surati is dedicated to Georgian culture and religion, with a beautiful and ethereal colour palette taken from the cityscapes’ soft hues of grey, teal and pink. To create her unrivalled fusion of softness and structure Bukia uses a plethora of bountiful and fluid fabrics: organza, silk, satin, crepe, chiffon, georgette and cotton to great effect, utilising draping and pleating techniques to create sleek and modern silhouettes that are overtly feminine and easily wearable.

With the main emphasis on strong and angular shoulder lines, silhouettes were dramatized with pointy triangles creating a striking futuristic balance between strength and fragility. Key garments were beautifully constructed drop waisted dresses and voluminous maxis. In terms of hair and make-up, intriguing buns whereby the ponytail is doubled over at the front were present creating a superficial fringe by way of a Croydon facelift.

LFW SS11 Diary: Jacob Kimmie

Situated a stone’s throw from Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s base of operation Freemasons Hall, South African born designer Jacob Kimmie previewed his SS11 collection entitled, Eternal Delight to a full house at The Studio. Taking his title from William Blake, Eternal Delight is a collection brimming with attitude and uncompromising vision.

Introducing menswear into his collection for the first time, Kimmie has expertly created a futuristic range of sleek masculine neo-tailoring, including the most exciting piece on display; The New David, which refers to the garment specially created for a model born with a congenital disability, encasing his left arm in an all white concept body piece. I thought this piece was absolutely fantastic and I loved that David had been recognised with a creation custom-made for his body. He looked great and if he wasn’t modelling I would have loved to talk to him as he is going to have a hugely successful career (you heard it here first).

Present throughout the collection were a combination of subtle and extravagant beautifully intricate futuristic cuffs and collars made from lazer-cut paper in black, white and electric blue colourways, which added to the impact of Kimmie’s firm and striking collection.

Aimed at women who want their wardrobes to reflect their personality rather than stereotypes, Kimmie says of his collection: “This [collection] is the antidote to the caricaturised view of women. It’s a collection of clothes for women to claim back individuality and sexiness.”

Beekay

An old friend whom I bumped into during LFW was Beekay who was exhibiting as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout in the grand setting of the Freemasons Hall.

Having graduated back in 2008, Beekay debuted his menswear label at On|Off last year where he showcased his collections for AW09 and SS10.

Inspired by heavy metal animations, Beekay utilised his signature leather to great effect creating a striking AW10 collection inspired by natural motifs, with particular attention to the natural contours of tree trucks and the raw textures of leaves.

Doii, Doii, Doii

All scans courtesy of Doii and all images courtesy of moi!

Well as you know Doii was by FAR my favourite show of LFW, although - to be fair - Ashish was such a close second. Anyhow I wanted to tell you exactly why I loved it, but as i've written about it twice (the day job, you see) I'm not sure I can rewrite my thoughts for a third time so I'll keep the comments brief...

On Sunday 21st Feb at 11:30 I attended the Doii show held as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout. I genuinely didn't know very much about the brand before I went, but now feel that if I could only go to one show next season; it would be Doii! Patiently waiting for the show to begin, I was enticed by the beautiful florals present on both the invitation and the information pack, which kept me intrigued until the show began, due to all of the beautiful illustrations and prints it contained which I was later to discover, featured heavily through the collection(see below). Upgraded to the front row I was pleased as punch!

Opening the show was a beautiful porcelain faced, red headed model who bore a striking resemblance to Little Red Riding Hood, wondering through a forgotten forest in an almost forgotten fairytale. With each model having the most striking big and bouncy curls in their hair they floated ethereally down the catwalk in a beautiful array of floral dresses.

Working multiple trends with great aplomb, there were cute as-a-button bubble hem dresses, floating bohemian offerings and not forgetting the oversized puff sleeves present in a Victoriana inspired black lace number. channelling the winter theme were thick furs and knee high fluffy boots, ideal for the snowy days we’re sure to experience this time next year seeing as the fight against global warming is failing.....

Founded in 2006 by Korean designer Doii Lee, the Doii Paris label is well known for its elegant and eye catching designs conceived in Paris and produced in Korea. With each piece created so limited edition that only a few will ever exist, this is the most couture ready-to-wear collection to be shown at this season’s LFW.

To perfectly finish each look, every model wore a pair of patent leather Mary-Jane’s fastened with the cutest oversized bows in printed fabrics, and when combined with the playing card print we had visions of a modern day Alice in Wonderland – falling down the rabbit-hole after gazing too long at this simply mesmerizing collection!

                                                                                                             Doii Lee, in her own design- naturally

Simply exquisite as I'm sure you'll agree!!! As you can see from the plethora of images this show really got me excited so I wanted to take a look at the garments up close to ensure they were the real deal, and I'm pleased to say they really are!