LFW Diary AW11: Jena.Theo

Imagery throughout courtesy of Essence Communications

Opening the internationally renowned On|Off platform for AW11, Jena Theo was the first show I attended at On|Off’s new Covent Garden show-space, Mercer Studios. Ridiculously over-subscribed - mainly due to the design duo’s extreme popularity - we all packed in to the tight space and eagerly waited for the brand’s signature dark aesthetic to captivate us - and captivate it did.

Entitled Valkyrie, the collection name is taken from Norse mythology, with the term Valkyrie,representing a band of celestial female figures who decide who will die in the field of battle. Known as lovers of heroes, Valkyrie take their chosen warriors to the Hall of the Slain. For their eagerly anticipated third on-schedule appearance at LFW, talented design duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis have boldly taken their strong and somewhat dark aesthetic one step further, deftly juxtaposing elements of fantasy fiction and Norse mythology, to produce a highly covetable and wearable collection.

Expertly blending elements of 80’s Cinema with their signature bold and modern cuts and bleak colour palette, shapes were voluminous, with geometry and repeat patterns bringing the theme into the modern age. Key pieces included cute cashmere sweaters, a leather patchwork jacket, opulent silk modal jerseys and sand-wash silk satins which appeared in soft hues of black, charcoal grey and cream. Baby alpaca and wool hand-knits softened the bold lines created in the collection nicely, giving each garment an added layer of complexity.

With dark bands of matt black across the eyes of the models, the make-up for me typified the dark aesthetic of the Jena Theo brand, an aesthetic that has so far brought them great success, which looks set to continue into next season.

LFW Diary AW11: Ada Zanditon

A concept designer whose bold collections I genuinely look forward to seeing every season is Ada Zanditon (pictured above with her collection), whose talent and international renown has gone stratospheric since I was first introduced to her work in October 2009 through a writing assignment for Amelia's Magazine. Taking a different approach for this AW11 season, Zanditon's collection, entitled The Cryoflux, premiered with a short film inspired by the collection (directed by Andrew and William Ho), accompanied by a static presentation at On|Off's new show space at The Mercer Studios. As a must-attend event off-schedule, Ada's presentation created so much buzz that guests had to queue to take pictures of each mannequin in a very orderly and classically British fashion.

Season after season Zanditon continues to show why she's at the forefront of ethical fashion, winning awards for her pioneering, creative and intellectual approach to womenswear. Continuing to persu her trademark aesthetic for sculptural and architectural design, this season Zanditon takes inspiration from the extreme climates of Antarctica. Reflected through a cool colour palette of navy, marine and flame, Zanditon plays to her strengths utilising the fluidity and structural elements of her heavily textured fabrics: melton wool, Scottish tweed, Ocean Buckingham shantung, firebird, marine double ombre chiffon and black vegetable tanned leather – bet you've never heard of some of those fabrics before!

With fewer garments showcased than I recall seeing in previous seasons, the collection had a great impact none-the-less, with many of the bloggers, fashion editors and stylists in attendance 'coo'ing over each and every piece. With a strong collection of show stopper dresses (perhaps out shining the separates), references to the natural formation of unbroken Antarctic waterfalls were bountiful. Eye-catching separates included the garbadine flared shorts and a stunning double silhouette maxi skirt. Coats also featured heavily, as you'd expect from a winter collection, with a variety on offer to suit any occasion (military, pea, trench and puffa), geometrically cut in an endless variety of digital prints and glacial silks. Building upon their prior collaborations, once again Zanditon has teamed up with chic jewellery designer Luca Romanyi to produce a magnificent range of geometric statement necklaces, created using a combination of printed tiles, silver chain and vegetable tanned leather.

Not necessarily how I would have chosen to present en mass on the inaugural day of LFW, somehow it worked, and yet again Ada Zanditon has triumphed, proving ethical and sustainable fashion can be just as chic, visionary and exciting as non, if not a hundred times better – and as an added bonus you get to enjoy your wardrobe with a squeaky clean conscience.