Imagery throughout courtesy of Essence Communications
Opening the internationally renowned On|Off platform for AW11, Jena Theo was the first show I attended at On|Off’s new Covent Garden show-space, Mercer Studios. Ridiculously over-subscribed - mainly due to the design duo’s extreme popularity - we all packed in to the tight space and eagerly waited for the brand’s signature dark aesthetic to captivate us - and captivate it did. Entitled Valkyrie, the collection name is taken from Norse mythology, with the term Valkyrie,representing a band of celestial female figures who decide who will die in the field of battle. Known as lovers of heroes, Valkyrie take their chosen warriors to the Hall of the Slain. For their eagerly anticipated third on-schedule appearance at LFW, talented design duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis have boldly taken their strong and somewhat dark aesthetic one step further, deftly juxtaposing elements of fantasy fiction and Norse mythology, to produce a highly covetable and wearable collection.
Expertly blending elements of 80’s Cinema with their signature bold and modern cuts and bleak colour palette, shapes were voluminous, with geometry and repeat patterns bringing the theme into the modern age. Key pieces included cute cashmere sweaters, a leather patchwork jacket, opulent silk modal jerseys and sand-wash silk satins which appeared in soft hues of black, charcoal grey and cream. Baby alpaca and wool hand-knits softened the bold lines created in the collection nicely, giving each garment an added layer of complexity.
With dark bands of matt black across the eyes of the models, the make-up for me typified the dark aesthetic of the Jena Theo brand, an aesthetic that has so far brought them great success, which looks set to continue into next season.
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