LFW Diary AW11: Jazzkatze

A designer whom I didn't know too much about beforehand, I was delighted to be back at the resplendent Freemasons' Hall last Sunday afternoon, taking a front row seat at Jazzkatze's AW11 catwalk show. With a collection called The Name of the Rose and an invitation depicting what looked to be a red rose covered in snow, I wasn't too sure what to expect from the collection, but am pleased to say I absolutely loved it! Founded in Japan, the intriguingly named Jazzkatze is the label of Central Saint Martin’s graduate Ayumi Sufu, who takes inspiration from her personal experiences of Japan’s economic growth and fall, paying particular attention to the cultural mix of traditional and western values, somehow unified as one identity.

Inspired by The Name of the Rose novel written by Italian medievalist Umberto Eco in the early 80's, the story is an intellectual mystery, reflecting the paradoxical relationship of existence that is made by individuals and their memories. As the title of Eco's novel suggests Jazzkatze playfully experiments with images of a rose, subtly exploring the beauty and femininity of the petals, in stark contrast to the masculinity of the thorny stalk. As the lights dimmed and the show began, models strode out confidently to less well-known songs from The Smiths/ Morrisey back catalogue. Displaying a rich colour palette from the offset, royal navy, dark grey, nude beige and wine burgundy featured heavily throughout, however it was the variety of textures on display that were the real feat of ingenuity; melton wool, mohair, silk, embellishment and embroidery galore.

Stand out garments included silk pussy-bow shirts in blood red, cute wool floral hot-pants and the quirky medieval inspired hooded coat. Simple yet chic dresses dominated, with the majority featuring Jazzkatze’s signature AW11 print – a snow covered ground with blood slash roses, artfully symbolising birth. I particularly loved the pearl encrusted tights - which bore clusters around the knees and ankles – adding an unusual level of glamour and sophistication to the collection. Hair was beautifully stacked in buns and layered like wedding cake, decorated with an assortment of blue extensions and ribbons, which for me typified the collection as being good enough to eat!