Brand Of The Week: Yumiko Isa

Having just graduated from a Fashion Design Technology, Surface Textiles BA this summer, Yumiko Isa is yet another of the extremely talented designers at the LCF Class of 2011 show, who caught my eye.

Images throughout courtesy of Yumiko Isa/ LCF and Catwalking. The above are photographed by Christopher Moore

Debuting the AW11 collection at The Studio at the beginning of last month, Isa’s offering is inspired by traditional Japanese kimono with Balenciaga's dramatic design from the 1950s, moulded into an altogether unique aesthetic. Entitled ‘the beauty of blank’ which is inspired by the phrase “less is more”, the capsule collection displays an artful combination of simplicity and femininity, illustrated perfectly for me in the beautiful woollen two tone gloves (my favourite of which are the cream and navy blue colourway) that reached above the elbow.

The above are photographed by Sean Michael

Deftly using a combination of high quality yarns and a wide range of knitting techniques such as felting and brushing, models were bound like mummies in a plethora of delicate and light-weight knits, taking tiny steps in their restrictive garments. Adopting a shuffle, reminiscent of high security prisoners, secured in invisible wrist and ankle cuffs, the models walked slowly allowing the audience ample time to inspect their clothing.

The above and first block below are photographed by Sean Michael

Whilst restrictive, Isa’s wearable collection uses twisted, knotted and folded details to create garments that look both unique and sophisticated. The gradated colours taken from kimono patterns are mixed with special yarns such as elastic mohair and angora mix fine lambs wool, bringing a tactile and richly soft elegance to the pieces.

With finishing details such as shiny bin liner looking lurex used as underskirts and hand-made accessories such as head pieces Isa’s debut was the perfect combination of understated, experimental and successful design that I’ve come to expect from LCF graduates.