Tuesday, 31 March 2009

Trendstop FW09 lecture- 25 March 2009

Formed in 2004, Jaana Jätyri's (pictured top left) main occupation was a fashion designer who founded Trendstop as a reaction to her peers and colleagues who felt that there was not such a service available to designers across all fields such as fashion, architecture, and interiors to name but a few.

Below is an over view of trends and looks that will be present on the catwalks to the high streets in autumn/ winter 2009.

19th Century Dandy / Southern Comfort
Heavy textile influence
Prince of Wales, Tweed and printed velvet fabrics
Brocade, faux brocade
Dandy accessories such as cravats and bowties
Capes and cloaks
Midnight navy, fortified wine, tobacco- good to use the darker colours for the detailing

Behind the Iron Curtain
Film influences- Eastern Promises and new Tarantino ‘the Glorious Buster’
Greyscale panelling
Uniform colours such as charcoal grey
Flannel and washed woollen fabrics
Caps, uniform shirts, jodhpurs
Industrial work wear becoming design masterpieces for modern times

Couture for men
Hourglass silhouettes
Pinched waists- belted suits
Cocoon shapes
Sculpted bracelet sleeves
Cutting precision in navy and black
Homage to couturier Charles Worth
Kilts over skirts / trouser skirts
Hybrid dress making fabrics
Luxe wrap
Elaborate hats
Scarves to add an effeminate softness
Washed fabric effects to create a subtle texture
Feminine colours through detailing
Military detailing

Menswear Overview
Nude colour palette- camel shades
Madagascar sapphire
Emerald and winter green
Feminine reds- make up colours
Nightshade mauve
Shocking pink highlights
Yellow with monochrome
Colour blocking
Padding and quilting
Quilt placement on shoulders and front of garments- not restricted to the shoulders
Indoor leather-Sweater shapes and scarves
Low crotch tailored trousers

Scarytale: Witches/ Wood Dwelling Creatures
Fantsy characters
Purple and teal ocean colour
Black tape colouring
Hypnotic prints and patterns
Ornate graphic prints
Edwardian lace dresses

Paris of the Orient
Chiniese culture pays a big influence
Chinese red
Couturier Paul Poiret cocoon shapes
Alfons muscha prints
Upholstery tassels
Beaded purses

Paris Girl
Dandy looks translating into womens wear
19th Century poets- Lord Byron’s girl
Military referencing
Lapels, double breasted buttons, epaulettes, peplum
Satin and velvet brocade
19th Century frock coats
Waistcoats with dandy frilly blouses
Neck ruffles, cravats and boyish quiffs
Midnight navy velvet playsuits
Jersey fabrics
Biker dandy- leather

Lady is a Vamp
1940s wartime influences
Shadow and amber streetlight shades
Film noir / femme fatale
German expression
Joan Crawford shoulder pads
Belted utility tailoring air hostess / luxe balaclava
Helmet visors
Scarlet coloured accessories
Caramel flannel
French resistance chic
Fur arm warmers
Pagoda shoulders
Jersey tops / T-shirts with shoulder pads
Star trek officer jodhpurs
Leather tailoring
Contrast sleeves
Translucent colours and fabrics
All in ones / jumpsuits
Boiler suit look
Shaved fur patterns
Shaved hair

Womenswear Overview
Head to toe black (even designers who usually add a colour splash)
Bright colour pop with black
Optimistic colours such as- vertant green, butter and toffee, cool brown, winter white, dove grey, charcoal
Black and white optic weaves
Hound’s-tooth patterns
Grown up sophistication found in kids optic prints but translated to black and white
Optic hosiery
Black and red combinations
Appliqué on shoulders
Bustle trousers

All in all a good evening out, with great sushi, wine, vodka and most of all good company.
Image courtesy of Trendstop.

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