Creative-Idle

Art-iculate: Lucian Freud Portraits at the NPG

2012-02-15T16:00:00.010Z

Last Wednesday morning I had the hottest ticket in town; the press view of the Lucian Freud retrospective at the National Portrait Gallery. An exhibition that had been in the works for some time, it was with great sadness that it turned into a posthumous showcase following Freud’s departure last July. Having reached the ripe age of 88, Freud leaves behind a great legacy as Britain’s greatest portrait painter of the 21st Century.

Reflection (Self-portrait), 1985: Private Collection, Ireland © The Lucian Freud Archive. Photo: Courtesy Lucian Freud Archive

This sprawling exhibition - the first of its size devoted to portraiture, and the most ambitious Freud exhibition for over a decade - is testament to Freud’s extensive career displaying early works from the 1940s through to his last works of his long-term assistant David Dawson.

Displaying a mixture of 130 iconic and rarely-seen oil paintings and works on paper, Lucian Freud Portraits splits the artist’s work into periods of his career and groups of sitters, seeing entire rooms dedicated to his regular subjects, benefits supervisor “Big Sue” Tilly, and the towering figure of her friend, legendary Australian performance artist Leigh Bowery (pictured below).

Leigh Bowery (Seated), 1990: Private Collection © The Lucian Freud Archive. Photo: Courtesy Lucian Freud Archive

Freud’s eclectic work knew no boundaries seeing him paint people from all walks of life; from aristocracy to the criminal underworld, shying away from private commissions, conducting all painting within the confines of his studio.

Like a visual diary, Lucian Freud Portraits depicts many of the people who came in and out of the artist’s life over the past seventy years from his lovers, through to his children (those we know publicly and others had with mistresses over the years), respected peers, friends and of course the Queen, whose portrait he famously painted in 2001. Of his work Freud once remarked, “I work from people that interest me and that I care about, in rooms that I live in and know”.

The Brigadier, 2003-04 - Private Collection © The Lucian Freud Archive. Photo: Courtesy Lucian Freud Archive

Chosen to demonstrate the psychological drama and unrelenting observational intensity of his work, these portraits are displayed in chronological order enabling visitors to trace the distinctive trajectory of his career, marvel at the evolution of his craft, and witness the development of his signature style for which he is so renowned, through the years.

The marked development through drawings and etchings and from the earliest head-and-shoulder painted portraits to those of the 1960s is stark. This is when Freud started standing rather than sitting at his easel to paint full-length nudes with thicker brushes and a denser application of pigments. When asked about this later in his career Freud quipped, “when I stood up I never sat down again”.

Girl with a White Dog, 1950-1 -Tate: Purchased 1952 © Tate, London 2012

Early works, particularly those between 1947 and 1951 of the artist’s first wife Kitty (as pictured above) show over-exaggerated features and whilst still good representations by anyone’s standards, compared to the work we know him for today they come across as amateurish. Working only from life the artist said “I could never put anything into a picture that wasn’t actually there in front of me… Everything is autobiographical and everything is a portrait, even if it’s only a chair.”

A master of oils, the skills and methods used are like that of no other artist, seeing Freud remix his paint with each and every stroke, the results of which are fascinating to see up close. The attention to detail is staggering, and I can genuinely say I’ve never seen so many shades of ‘flesh’.

Standing by the Rags, 1988-9 - Tate: Purchased with assistance from the Art Fund, the friends of the Tate Gallery and anonymous donors 1990 © The Lucian Freud Archive. Photo: Courtesy Lucian Freud Archive

Favouring the colour green, present in the background in a variety of chairs and indoor plants, several portraits also display swathes of discarded fabrics on the floor in the background, giving an insight into how untidy the artist’s studio was, using these old linens to blot his brushes after each stroke.

Upon closer inspection many Lucian Freud Portraits are not what they seem, peppered with ambiguous facial expressions, unusual or uncomfortable poses telling spaces between figures in groups or double portraits adding to their psychological power. My favourite portraits are those of the artist himself, which punctuate the stylistic changes and further add to the life diary thread that runs throughout the showcase. I also love the extreme detail in Two Irishmen in W11 (pictured below) as for me it both sums up and showcases Freud's array of talents beautifully.

Private Collection, Ireland © The Lucian Freud Archive. Photo: Courtesy Lucian Freud Archive

One of my favourite artists of all time, Freud is a great representation of British art and it makes sense for this retrospective to be affiliated with the Cultural Olympiad. Opportunities to see such a remarkable and well curated assembly of a life’s work don’t come by often and who can say when these very works will next be reassembled. Forget Hockney, if you see any exhibition this spring it has to be Lucian Freud Portraits, which runs until 27th May.

Scrapbook: "Aerial" Series (somewhere over Turkey and Iran) pt. III

2012-02-15T10:00:00.000Z

Bangladesh; a blogging workshop

2012-02-14T19:41:00.001Z

At the beginning of the month I was thrilled to be recruited by the British Council to undertake some freelance work in Bangladesh. A country I had only ever dreamed of visiting, this was the perfect opportunity to travel to an exotic land and learn about a new culture whilst shedding some light on the West’s love of blogging and the rise of online fashion journalism.

Held in conjunction with the British Council’s touring exhibition, Reconstruction: Cultural Heritage and the Making of Contemporary Fashion I was flown in to host a two-day workshop for local journalists with an aim to open further dialogue between British and Bangladeshi fashion professionals and consumers, communicating word of the indigenous great fashion and heritage in crafts and fabric production to the wider world.

One of the main topics I set out to discuss in the workshop is the lack of information widely available about Bangladeshi fashion. As a Brit looking to swat up on the aforementioned topic, when it came to putting together a presentation I thought the Internet would be a great ally, but it proved fruitless as I found no dedicated fashion content online or in print, native to Bangladesh. This is something that we discussed widely in the workshop, debating whether there is enough national interest in fashion to warrant dedicated consumer magazines, particularly when it comes to menswear.

Currently fashion is documented in a couple of choice lifestyle print magazines, with the most successful and fashion heavy being Canvas, founded by an attendee of the workshop Saifur Rahman, who is Executive Editor of the monthly magazine. Primarily speaking, fashion is covered in national newspapers when high profile events takes place, and is otherwise allocated a few pages in national and regional news supplements.

Whilst articles on events and pieces with a clear journalistic approach are often published in online editions, the scope of Bangladesh’s burgeoning fashion industry and rich heritage in fabric production at present remains a topic of immense national pride, and rightly so, however it is perhaps Bangladesh’s best kept secret.

The first workshop of its kind in Bangladesh, I was privileged to be chosen for the job and was eager to discuss ways in which the aspiring fashion journalists could network and promote their work to a global audience. Everyone was familiar with Twitter and Facebook and these basic social networking tools are widely used on a personal level, but rarely employed for business purposes.

On the morning of the first day I talked mostly about the advantages of blogging, the networking infrastructure open to bloggers and the general opportunity to create a platform independent from regulated media where journalists, commentators and fashion lovers alike can discuss and debate anything and everything, but most importantly blogs can act as a springboard to encourage change and to reform the industry from within.

Covering the basics such as how to review an exhibition, analyse a street-style outfit and write about a fashion show, I hoped to make the structure of the workshop less rigid than those I have attended, giving the attendees ample opportunities to float questions and encourage debate, compare industries in the UK and Bangladesh and generally get more hands on through a series of interactive exercises – producing photographs and taking a fieldtrip to the National Museum in a procession of rickshaws, to name but a few.

Something I personally enjoyed was critiquing the published work of the attendees in a group: the class were split in two and each sub-group nominated a piece of work to be presented to the group, one in Bangla written by Saifur and another written in English from my group. It was great to hear such positive feedback and constructive criticism from all corners of the room.

Perhaps my favourite point of the workshop came on the afternoon of the second day when we were joined by a very special guest; fashion designer, lecturer and contributor to Canvas, Farzana Yusuf. Educated in Bangladesh, India and the UK, Farzana was the perfect guest to speak about her view of the fashion industries in the East and West, perfectly positioned to discuss the mechanics of the industry as a designer looking for sponsorship and press coverage and as a journalist working from the other side to promote home-grown brands and design talent.

Intended as a demonstration of how to conduct an interview, before Farzana arrived each member of the workshop wrote down a few questions which I then posed in an organic and conversational manner. What I enjoyed most about this (other than having a revered designer in our midst) was the debate that ensued in response to some of the questions. For example, everyone had an opinion on whether the Jamdani (a traditional fabric of the Bangladesh loom) should be modernised or altered. Unbeknown to me at the time, this is a really contentious and current issue seeing designers divided on whether to preserve or reinterpret something so close to the country’s national identity.

I also felt it was interesting for the attendees to hear myself and Farzana talk about how smooth the fashion machine runs in the UK, where PRs help to establish designers, find them stockists, increase their profiles in the media and even introduce them to celebrities who will promote and wear their fashions on the red carpet. Also in the UK graduates are supported at every stage and given great access and opportunities to work with reputable brands and head designers to further learn their craft on the job – in essence, things we take for granted in the West. Bangladesh and Dhaka in particular, is moving in the right direction; however everyone was unanimous that there is a long way to go before everyone in the industry understands the importance of their role and the knock on effect they have in the process of promoting fashion.

Something beautiful I observed throughout my stay and indeed in the workshop is how fiercely patriotic the people of Bangladesh are. I loved learning about all of the cultural and religious festivals, traditionally celebrated with costume; different colours are adopted for different times of year and it is seen as a demonstration of unity. February is the month of language and is represented by text on garments and the colours black and white.

Spread evenly throughout the year there is always something to look forward to with celebrations that bring everyone together in a way that I can’t ever imagine being a success in the UK. We are good at uniting for one-off occasions such as the royal wedding of 2011, and this year will see more street parties and local events in celebration of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, but this is by no means on a national scale and held in such a high regard.

What I learned most in just a few short days is that the West at large greatly underestimates and perhaps even undervalues the knowledge and skills of the East. We all know of the exploitation that goes on, but how often do you hear of the rich heritage in craft, for example, being celebrated. The British Council do an amazing job to build relationships between the UK and countries across the world and the installation of Reconstruction: Cultural Heritage and the Making of Contemporary Fashion in the traditional Bangladesh National Museum is a major coup and a step in the right direction, bringing high-profile British fashion to Bangladesh’s doorstop and by return generating a buzz this side of the world for the wealth of talent within this great nation.

This trip to Bangladesh was an invaluable experience that I’d be excited and keen to repeat. I’ve made several friends along the way and am very much looking forward to contributing to Canvas Magazine in the near future.

Thanks to Alex and Kendall in the UK British Council team, to Eeshita for looking after me so well in Bangladesh and for facilitating the workshop, to Farzana Yusuf for kindly donating her time and answering our probing questions and also to Saifur Rahman for taking me shopping and going out of his way to show me the real Dhaka.

Creative Idle mentioned in Bangladesh's New Age (online newspaper)

2012-02-14T10:41:00.001Z

by Shegufta Behtarin

On February 3 and 4, British Council Dhaka arranged for a two day fashion journalism workshop that was the first ever initiative of its kind in Bangladesh, where fashion experts from UK came to give the fashion journalist here a whole new perspective of the fashion scenario around the world. This workshop was a part of a fashion exhibition that British Council is holding in collaboration with the National Museum in upholding the fashion trends and styles around the globe.

The fashion exhibition which began on January 28 at the National Museum was named Reconstruction in an effort to convey the links and bondages between fashions around the world. The exhibition highlights works of seven eminent British designers along with three Bangladeshi designers and some of National Museum's collection of textiles and weavings. The works of the designers show the linkage between the past techniques and ideas that tell tales of the present day fashion. The designers participating in the event are world famous designer such as Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, and Hussein Chalayan among many others. From the Bangladeshi panel, they had Ruby Ghaznavi, Monjulika Chakma and Emdad Haque.

As a part of the exhibition, British Council invited Rachael Oku the sub-editor of Six Magazine and blogger of Creative-Idle to conduct a workshop for the fashion journalists here. On the first day of the session Oku talked about the global trends of blogging and its pros and cons. She emphasized on the changes that blogging has brought to the fashion scene. She highlighted that by opting for blogging regarding fashion issues a lot important aspects can be addressed. She taught a few tools like Instagram, Bitly, Feedburner and other tools which could be useful for fashion journalism.

The idea of the session was to compare and contrast between the relatively new concept of blogging and old form of fashion reporting in magazines. On this Oku commented that the bloggers posses much higher degree of freedom regarding their opinions and views. The discussion highlighted on how Bangladeshi fashion industry could benefit from blogging in terms of sharing varied ideas and making critical analyses of the contemporary works and creating a readily accessible platform for information dispersion to all related to fashion.

The journalists also took a tour of the exhibits of the British designers at the museum to share and exchange ideas on their works. On the second day of the workshop Oku discussed some of the important aspects of writing fashion features with the journalists present, where importance of good observation of the colours, textiles, lightings, styles used by designers was emphasized.

This event will come to an end on January 11 through a fashion show by the participating Bangladeshi designers. About this unique event aimed at focusing on the creative and cultural aspects of east and west, the director of British Council Rosemary Arnott said, 'We often underestimate the strong influence of cultural heritage we have in our personal life, I am sure this exhibition will be of interest to Bangladeshi designers who want to thinkoutside the box.'

Scrapbook: "Aerial" Series (somewhere over Turkey and Iran) pt. II

2012-02-14T10:00:00.000Z

Scrapbook: "Aerial" Series (somewhere over Turkey and Iran) pt. I

2012-02-13T10:00:00.001Z

Scrapbook: Dubai sunset

2012-02-11T12:34:00.000Z

Bangladesh Scrapbook: market life

2012-02-10T15:00:00.000Z

Scrapbook Bangladesh: British Council Hay Festival installation

2012-02-10T12:00:00.001Z

Scrapbook Bangladesh: rickshaw town

2012-02-09T15:00:00.000Z

Scrapbook Bangladesh: all in a day's work

2012-02-09T12:00:00.001Z

Art-iculate: Reconstruction, Cultural Heritage and the Making of Contemporary Fashion

2012-02-08T15:42:00.001Z

Workshop group outside the Bangladesh National Museum

Last week I went to Bangladesh to conduct a two-day fashion journalism and blogging workshop to run in conjunction with the British Council’s ground-breaking exhibition Reconstruction: Cultural Heritage and the Making of Contemporary Fashion.

The British Council is the UK’s leading cultural relations organisation, with creative arts forming the focus of many of its global projects. Through collaborations between institutions and designers across multiple disciplines the British Council aim to explore the industries and skills in countries across the world looking in particular at people’s understanding of British culture through a strong educational program.

Working with over 100 countries the work the British Council do is crucial to open a dialogue and create a communication of ideas between the UK and the wider global community.

Sophia Kokosalaki

On the first day of the workshop I took the attendees on a field trip to the Bangladesh National Museum to view the display first-hand with an aim of critically analysing it the following morning by way of a group review.

Celebrating the work of seven of the UK’s most prolific London-based designers; Hussein Chalayan, Vivienne Westwood, Osman Yousefzada, Peter Jensen, Sophia Kokosalaki, Marios Schwab and Paul Smith, Reconstruction examines how they distil elements of their past to create clothes with a strong narrative. Drawing on personal circumstance and experiences such as religion, travel, cultural heritage and emotion, these seven designers express themselves without restraint, weaving a tapestry of their lives with fashion as their medium of choice.

Emdad Hoque

Also exhibited are three designers of Bangladeshi origin Emdad Hoque, Ruby Ghuznavi and Manjulika Chakma, who each contributed two garments to the showcase. All visually exciting for numerous reasons, the skills displayed were second to none, in some respects putting the globally acclaimed British designers to shame with their acute attention to detail and the evident time and labour put into each and every hand-stitch.

Ruby Ghuznavi

My favourite of the three is award-winning designer Manjulika Chakma who displays strong tribal references and techniques mixed with a modern twist throughout her designs inspired by the rural communities of Chakma, Khayang, Khumi, Lushai and Mong. Bursting with colour and texture Chakma specialises in weaving, vegetable dying and embroidery.

Manjulika Chakma

Juxtaposed with the display of Eastern and Western garments is a collection of traditional Bangladeshi textiles and cloths taken directly from the National Museum’s own collection. Discovering the rich history of craft and in particular exquisite fabric production in Bangladesh put me in great stead to analyse the contemporary Bangladeshi fashion designs, looking at how the use of fabric has evolved through centuries and generations, and how traditional weaving, embroidery and embellishment techniques continue to flourish. The fine silks dating back to 19th Century and the Jamdani were of great significance, epitomising the root of Bangladesh’s great weaving heritage.

Archive Jamdani examples (above anbd below)

A renowned centre of textiles, the earliest evidence of fine transparent cotton cloth made in Bangladesh dates back to the 3rd Century BC, with cotton cloth appearing on stone sculptures from the 10-12th Centuries. No textile is better known that the Jamdani, renowned for its intricate patterns and as the most expensive fabric created on the Dhaka loom.

What intrigued me, perhaps most about the exhibition, was the response from the local community who by and large seemed to wholeheartedly appreciate the opportunity to see such fine craftsmanship in their home town. The workshop attendees explained to me that if it wasn’t for organisations such as the British Council they would have to travel to Europe to see such a showcase and would rarely have an opportunity to get so close to designers by industry heavyweights such as Vivienne Westwood and Osman.

Osman and Peter Jensen

From our workshop discussion with regard to what the attendees would change about the exhibition, everyone was unanimous that the Bangladeshi designers were not given enough of a spotlight. They recognised that it is indeed hard to find the right balance on a touring exhibition; however they would have liked to see the curation be a bit bolder, seeing seven Bangladeshi designers showcased to match the seven Brits represented, by way of displaying unity and equality, reinforcing to a wider audience that Bangladeshi and British fashion can and should be held in the same esteem.

Vivienne Westwood

Also a better cross section of designers would have better seized the opportunity to promote - to the UK and wider world - how varied Bangladeshi fashion is. Certainly, after seeing the diversity of fashion on the Apex Life is Beautiful catwalk that evening, on reflection the Bangladeshi designers selected for Reconstruction sadly are overshadowed by the demi-couture garments on display by the likes of Westwood and Chalayan.

Marios Schwab

From a personal perspective I feel that any exhibition of this kind is a big step in the right direction and it was a delight to see the Bangladeshi designs in context with the heritage fabrics chosen for the exhibition. The only query I have is related to the balance of designers from opposing nations and the lack of menswear representation across the board.

Paul Smith

The first ever exhibition of its kind, Reconstruction has proved hugely successful and presents a unique opportunity for cultural exchange between Bangladesh and the UK, providing a foundation on which to build future exhibitions of this scale and larger, seeing designers and curators collaborate further to achieve the best representation of Bangladeshi fashion possible, unashamedly spotlighting and raising Bangladeshi designers to the lofty heights of the established and revered Western designers they are celebrated alongside.

Reconstruction opened in Kazakhstan in April 2011, and will have toured Russia, Uzbekistan, Bangladesh, Pakistan and India by the end of 2012. Catch Reconstruction: Cultural Heritage and the Making of Contemporary Fashion in Dhaka until 11 February.

Scrapbook Bangladesh: Raju Bhashkarjo at Dhaka University

2012-02-08T12:00:00.003Z

Creative-Idle mentioned on My BlogWorld's 'The Life Daily'

2012-02-07T16:29:00.000Z

'My Beautiful Life' fashion show in Dhaka, Bangladesh

2012-02-07T15:00:00.001Z

On my first night in Dhaka I was lucky enough to be able to attend a high profile fashion show held at the Radisson Blu Water Garden Hotel. In aid of acid burn victims there were over 200 guests in the audience ready to part with their hard-earned cash for a good cause.

Comprised of a fashion show lasting a good hour, followed by an auction and then dinner, this was a fashion show like no other. A true spectacle, there was regional tribal dancing between each section of the catwalk showcase and live music to conclude by internationally acclaimed artists Rupankar and Pintu Ghosh, with the extravaganza broadcast live on Desh TV.

Although fashionably late myself and Eeshita - of the British Council - were escorted past the cameras and to a table right in front of the catwalk, giving us some of the best seats in the house, so close to the runway that I could feel the heat of the lights. With a star host for the evening, there were several famous faces of Bangladeshi TV and Bollywood actresses, Paoli Dham, Locket Chatterjee, and Rituporna Sen to name but a few who took to the catwalk in aid of charity.

Organised by Indian fashion designer Agnimitra Paul, the mood was jovial with Dhaka’s elite out in full-force wearing their most beautiful clothes. The catwalk show itself was spectacular with rich colours and textures of soft cotton, georgette and Jamdani like I’ve never seen before, with models swathed in a diverse selection of hand-painted and hand-embroidered fabrics, worn in the form of the national dress, the sari.

When highlighted by my companion I discovered that there was a clear divide in the styles represented on the catwalk. Saris from eastern Bangladesh were beautifully understated and showcased traditional crafts beautifully in subtle colours that were undeniably elegant. In contrast designers from west Bangladesh used a lot of gold and silver in their collections (in a variety of flashy fabrics, sequins and trims [“par”]), creating undeniably beautiful pieces, which were reminiscent of couture in the sense that they were so OTT they were impractical at best, unless of course you are a Bollywood actress with a plethora of events at which to dazzle!

Hair was elegant and understated in buns and twists, frequently decorated with floral hairpieces and slides, adding extra colour and femininity at every opportunity. Make-up was thick for the TV cameras, however models still looked gorgeous, with heavily made-up eyes in a kaleidoscope of bright shades. All lips were red and skin demure and pale.

What impressed me most about the evening was how it celebrated a diverse selection of Bangladeshi fashion and I can’t think of a better possible introduction to the industry in Dhaka. I loved how it was treated as a big party with jovial models clearly happy to be taking part and donating their time and a British auctioneer who, although kept eyeing me suspiciously, was hilariously trying to induce higher bids, mishearing cash announcements from the audience and looking forlorn when the brashier looks from the west and less traditional outfits sadly received no bids.

Sponsored by Gallery Apex and a renowned menswear brand it is unclear at this stage how much taka was raised on the night, however several beautiful saris sold for 30 – 40,000 taka each. To add to the excitement of the evening there were several bidding wars which saw one woman win on two occasions paying 200,000 and 230,000 for two saris – the equivalent of £1,500 and £1,700 respectively.

Scrapbook Bangladesh: Virgin cola

2012-02-07T12:00:00.000Z

Scrapbook Bangladesh: in bloom

2012-02-06T12:00:00.000Z

Scrapbook Bangladesh: Graffiti blur

2012-02-05T18:00:00.000Z

Scrapbook Bangladesh: hustle and bustle

2012-02-05T15:49:00.000Z

Art-iculate: London Art Fair highlights

2012-01-25T14:09:00.000Z

Last Wednesday I visited the Business Design Centre to attend the opening night of the prestigious London Art Fair. An annual five day event showcasing the best in British and contemporary art, there were hundreds of superb works on display.

Below are some particular artists who caught my eye:

Annie Morris: Untitled (peg piece)

Agnes Toth: Empathy

Agnes Toth

Andy Stewart: Under a Gibbous moon

Boyle Family: Study for the fire series with melted records

Howard Dyke: Untitled (smoking plie)

Ralph Fleck: Stadion

James Jessop: Valley of horror

Shane Bradford

Cocosa launch editorial offering, Trend Edit

2012-01-17T14:41:00.000Z

Luxury online fashion e-tailer Cocosa has recently launched their very first fashion editorial in the form of a fab magazine entitled Trend Edit. Released biannually, the first addition highlights the best trends of SS12 for both men and women, creating a concise and clear-cut offering broken down by fashion capital, similar to that produced in print by Elle Collections – but better.

With contributions from esteemed fashion designers, stylists and commentators such as Henry Holland and Lauretta Roberts of WGSN Boutique, Trend Edit talks through all of the hottest trends of the forthcoming season in fashion, beauty and accessories. The layout is entirely original, filling pages with a variety of cylindrical patterns comprising a cacophony of catwalk images.

One of the best features of Trend Edit is the LFW timeline and of course, as the title might suggest the trend reports. Essential reading for those not necessarily affiliated with the industry in any way, little touches such as a double page spread of invitation designs and a handy buyers’ guide are priceless.

Each issue can be found on the Cocosa website, which since its launch in 2008 has fast become a fashion portal to be reckoned with. While different areas are open to members and non-members, Trend Edit is open to all. Cocosa is renowned for the global brands it carries such as Michael kors, Felder Felder and Jonathan Saunders, offering exclusive discounts and hand-picked products in addition to daily Style Notes.

A destination for all things high fashion, Cocosa and Trend Edit provide a wealth of knowledge for the fashion addict!

Kick start your complexion for 2012 (written for SIX Magazine)

2011-12-30T13:00:00.000Z

Image courtesy of Pai

An organically certified beauty brand that featured high on SIX Magazine’s Christmas wish list is Pai, who specialise in delectable products designed exclusively for sensitive and allergy-prone skin.

Exclusively utilising naturally derived ingredients which are approved by the Soil Association, Pai shun preservatives and aim to aid sensitive skin at every opportunity. Manufacturing in-house allows Pai to extensively research and test each product without the need for synthetic chemicals, artificial fragrances, alcohol and ‘secret formulas’, enabling consumers to understand exactly what is inside each and every bottle.

Read the rest of the article here.

Scrapbook: Zula shoot in old Sublime

2011-12-28T12:00:00.000Z

Scrapbook: Pendant light by Betty's Boudoir

2011-12-27T18:46:00.000Z

Creative-Idle mentioned in Company Magazine - Jan 2012

2011-12-20T10:31:00.000Z

Thanks to the lovely Rosamund Urwin I'm quoted in January 2012's Company report The Breadline Hemline, talking about how shoppers are investing in more expensive items that transcend trends, and how fashion enthusiasts are becoming more resourceful...

Art-iculate: Catwalk to Cover – a front row seat

2011-12-07T12:00:00.003Z

A couple of weekends ago I ventured down to one of my favourite Central London spaces, the Fashion and Textile Museum to see the exciting new exhibition Catwalk to Cover – a front row seat. Looking back from the first ever globally reported ready-to-wear catwalk show to the recent SS12 shows, Catwalk to Cover – a front row seat documents the magic of the fashion spectacle; with fashion week street style, intimate backstage snaps of models, a guide to who’s who of the frow – from editor to blogger to celebrity – and the resulting production streamed to millions of hungry eyes the world over.

A relatively modern phenomenon, the catwalk show can be dated as far back as fashion parades that took place in Paris couture houses in the 19th Century, however it will come as a surprise to many that designers didn’t really consider going it alone and showcasing en masse until the early ‘90s, with NYFW being the first collective stage established in 1993.

Spotlighting an exclusive and aspirational sphere, this fly-on-the-wall exhibition aims to shed some light on the inner-workings of the fashion machine, conveying the heady combination of chaos and creativity, paying particular attention to how it is marketed and presented to the world, detailing what happens behind the scenes and which opinion formers make a designer’s collection global news.

Featuring over 1,000 high-octane images from the most prolific catwalk photographers of our time, this sprawling display also features some breath-taking archive samples from the most famous names in their field: Christian Lacroix, Osman, Lanvin and Vivienne Westwood to name but a few.

What is most compelling about Catwalk to Cover – a front row seat is that it simultaneously dispels several myths about fashion, with one crucial misconception being that designers are among the most influential and envied creatives’ in the world. The truth is that designers have to work to extreme deadlines, rely on the talents of the team around them: creative directors, models, hair stylists, make-up artists etc. and the support and endorsement of the influentials: fashion editors, top tier bloggers and celebrities.

Over the past five years there has been a slight shift seeing bloggers and photographers increasingly relied upon to interpret the designer’s message and play a pivotal role in the distribution of imagery via social networking sites and blogging platforms.

Offering all fashion enthusiasts and professionals alike an opportunity to experience the view from the front row, Catwalk to Cover – a front row seat is a captivating insight into the inner-workings of what is one of the world’s most successful and glamorous industries.

Catwalk to Cover – a front row seat is showing at the Fashion and Textile Museum until 26th February 2012.

Flik Hall goes Under The Sea (written for SIX Magazine)

2011-12-02T12:19:00.000Z

Flik Hall’s SS12 collection film is created in collaboration with Ashley Joiner

A designer who has been impressing fashion editors with her striking prints since the conception of her eponymous brand in 2009 is Flik Hall. A Central Saint Martins graduate who worked for House of Holland before setting out on her own, Hall’s forthcoming offering for SS12, takes her trademark aesthetic for movement and print and juxtaposes it with luxury of the highest order.

Inspired by the eroticism relating to the form and ethereal symbolism of the octopus and cecaelia; prints feature extreme close-ups of octopi skin and twisting tentacles, utilising a variety of textures to take on a life of their own. Using British-sourced fabrics, the effects are spellbinding: leather is emblazoned with eyelets to take on the guise of octopi suckers, while printed leather deftly appears transformed into lace, featuring punched out holes seductively exposing the wearer’s skin. Silhouettes are narrow and fluid, structured and free.

To read the article in full visit SIX Magazine.

Edun's striking AW11 campaign

2011-11-30T12:00:00.002Z

Photographer: Mathias Sterner @ MINK MGMT.
Creative Direction: Champagne Valentine
Concept: Champagne Valentine + Jeff Kling
Art Director: Laetitia Migliore
Producer: Ted Bergcrona Wallenius
Stylist: Karen Langley
Stylist assistant: Monica Pinelder
Make up: Emma Luoise
Hair stylist: Irene Peeters
Hair assistant: Elise Hama
Designer: Sharon Wauchob
Models: Kim Jaspers @ WW Models, Truus Hoolveld @ Paparazzi Models, Robin Von der Krogt @ 77 Models, Mark Williams, Emmanuel Adjei, Ida Carlsson.

Here comes Henrietta

2011-11-25T16:59:00.000Z

A designer whose collections I absolutely adore is Henrietta Ludgate and last night I was excited to attend the launch of her brand new store in Whiteleys Shopping Centre. Entitled Work-shop, the space is kookily decorated with fabric rolls and is a lofty open space that showcases the brightly coloured sculpture of the Scottish designer’s collection perfectly.

Doubling up as a literal workshop, Ludgate is daringly putting herself on show in a bold move that will further encourage consumers to engage in the process of creating sustainable design.

Co-hosted by customers and ethical fashion champions, Livia Firth and Laura Bailey it was nice to see the usual suspects of our small niche of the industry.

Art-iculate: Simeon Farrar's Of Rainbows and Halos

2011-11-23T17:00:00.001Z

Last weekend I went down to the heart of London’s Carnaby district to view the fantastic new art installation by esteemed designer and established painter Simeon Farrar. Having caused quite the stir with his LFW stand back in September, Farrar displayed a rainbow paint splattered shed with an endearing cloud covered roof to embody the theme for his SS12 collection, Great British Weather.

Best known for his iconic portraits of Kate Mouse (of course based on supermodel Kate Moss), which get updated each season (this time with a Ziggy Stardust vibe), Farrar puts his other creative streak to good use, decorating his garments with his trademark iconoclastic prints.

In this new exhibition entitled Of Rainbows and Halos, Farrar take his magical shed into a kooky basement, where it is placed alongside dozens of works which utilise a variety of media; from screen printed t-shirts and paintings to lino prints on paper and what appear to be resin casts of bottles.

One of the most versatile and colourful artists I’ve had the pleasure to meet, Farrar continues his exploration of the dire British summer with panache and fervour, giving fans and shoppers alike the opportunity to explore his perspective.

With new works being added to the exhibition during its duration and old ones taken away, Farrar builds up a rapport with his visitors, keeping them engaged and leaving them wanting more – a canny move which has led to a near sell-out show.

An innovative use of an awkward space, Farrar’s wit and creativity come to the fore and this really is a musty-see exhibition.

Of Rainbows and Halos is showing at The Basement Gallery, 10 Newburgh Street until tomorrow!!

Marc B: When quilting became cool

2011-11-22T12:00:00.000Z

Anyone who’s ever perused the accessories floor in Topshop Oxford Circus will know Marc B are a brand with a huge in-store presence selling thousands of chic and super shiny quilted bags each week. The go-to brand for those seeking sophisticated arm candy at an affordable price, Marc B offer a plethora of sleek designs in a variety of pop colours, complete with elegant link chain straps.

At the Surgery PR press days earlier in the month the newest addition to the AW11 Marc B range, ‘Amelia’ caught my eye. Reminiscent of an old-fashioned doctor’s bag, this structured design boasts the brand’s signature quilting, chain detailing and funky a leopard print lining!
**Images throughout courtesy of Surgery PR.

Fashioning the Future Awards 2011 (written for SIX Magazine)

2011-11-18T23:57:00.002Z

Images courtesy of Alex Maguire and LCF

Last Thursday SIX Magazine were invited to the annual Fashioning the Future Awards pioneered by London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion. Held in the heart of the financial district in Canary Wharf’s domed East Wintergarden, aspiring designers and S+E fashion experts gathered to find out which graduates were to be crowned cream of the crop for 2011.

Founded just three years ago, the awards have gone from strength to strength encouraging a new generation of fashion innovators to pursue design-led solutions and sustainable practice in business. In a short space of time, the Fashioning the Future Awards has become the leading international student competition for design and innovation in sustainable fashion, attracting thousands of entries from around the world.

Up first was the award for Unique Balance which went to the deserving Sara Emilie Terp Hansen from Denmark. Using cork, a material usually associated with the wine industry, and giving it a new lease of life with a fashion forward application, Hansen was a clear winner highlighting the neglect of a valuable natural resource. The cork industry is currently threatened by the growth in plastic alternatives to classic bottle stoppers. This threatens the continued existence of cork forests worldwide; an important natural habitat and source of livelihood for many communities.

To read the full article visit SIX Magazine.

The allure of the black dress

2011-11-15T16:00:00.001Z

Ever wondered why the ‘little black dress’ is so ubiquitous with style, elegance and sophistication? The go-to garment for many women in a rush or just looking to wear something they trust they will look good in, the little black dress is a wardrobe staple for many, which is why I was impressed by a new brand I discovered at the recent SS12 Surgery PR press day.

Dedicated to finding you the perfect dress for whatever the occasion, Black Dress HQ is exactly what it says on the tin – and is an ingenious business idea. There is clearly a market for all manner of black dresses, so what better way to tap into this expansive customer base than by creating an outlet that stocks exclusive designer dresses from a global selection of designers.

As Karl Lagerfeld says: “One is never over-dressed or underdressed in a little black dress”.

Kiss Pristine (written for GLASS Magazine)

2011-11-14T13:28:00.001Z

As someone who learnt the benefits of make-up relatively late in my teenage life, for the past five years I’ve been on a quest to find a lip colour that does what it says on the tin. Kiss-proof, smudge-proof, waterproof, bleed-proof and other such false claims are rife in the beauty industry. However, light is at the end of the tunnel, as I've finally found a strong contender.

Available in fifteen pastel and warm pop colour shades, the Just Bitten lip stain and balm by Revlon is a revelation. Coming in a two ended wand, on one side you have pure colour. Applied with a nib much like that of a felt-tip pen; the idea is to colour dry lips with precision and wait for the colour to dry (in approx. 30 seconds). Then the other end of the wand comes into play. Take the moisturising lip balm and apply over lip stain to leave a smooth and glossy finish.

To read the rest of my review visit the GLASS Magazine website!

Creative-Idle mentioned on Eye Of The World Designs blog - 30th Oct

2011-10-31T15:07:00.001Z

The lovely Hope Von Joel and Liam Motyer mentioned me on the blog for their kitsch accessories brand Eye Of The World Designs.

LFW Diary SS12: Design Collective Scotland

2011-10-28T12:00:00.000+01:00

Creative-Idle mentioned on Masato Guardian - 27th Oct

2011-10-27T12:56:00.002+01:00

The lovely chaps at Masato Guardian mentioned me/ linked to today's LFW blog post (about the lovely and talented Brooke Roberts). Thanks very much! http://paper.li/masatostudio/1305885547

LFW Diary SS12: Brooke Roberts

2011-10-27T12:00:00.003+01:00

Brooke Roberts is another designer I met whilst working at Amelia’s Magazine and is incidentally the first person I ever interviewed. Having followed her work at the On|Off exhibition each season, this year at the Somerset House exhibition it was a lovely surprise to bump into Brooke and hopefully I’m a bit different to the bashful person who quizzed her in 2009 about her unique and intriguing combination of knitwear and radiography.

After interviewing Brooke in her Hackney studio I remember quite clearly going home, being inspired and thinking that there aren’t really enough nice words to describe Brooke. She’s super-smart, extremely passionate and is extremely gifted. Whilst it must be extremely hard juggling working for the NHS with managing, designing and sourcing for your own label, Brooke juggles with great aplomb and I’d bet good money this Australian loves every minute of what she does.

I particularly like these fantastic colour block belts (above) created by Eye Of The World Designs for Brooke Roberts!

LFW Diary SS12: Henrietta Ludgate

2011-10-26T12:00:00.001+01:00

A true designer’s designer, Henrietta Ludgate is an Estethica staple, whose collections are the very definition of ‘sculptural’.

LFW Diary SS12: Design Collective Scotland

2011-10-25T19:45:00.000+01:00

Showing as part of Estethica, I met wonderful womenswear designers Marc Ross (top collection), who makes exciting geometric and oscillating prints and Iona Crawford (towards the bottom), who creates sleek silhouettes in the most beautiful of silks.

Scrapbook: LFW blur

2011-10-24T12:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Dans La Vie

2011-10-19T12:00:00.001+01:00

A show I was unexpectedly invited to, Dans La Vie are a brand that ashamedly before SS12, I wasn’t too familiar with, however after seeing their beautiful colour-infused collection I’ve seen the light!

Held in the resplendent upstairs gallery of Freemasons Hall, for their second collection shown in London, Dans La Vie’s My Pop Madonna continues to play with a theme centred on clashing prints and colours, seeing the SS12 offering deeply inspired by Tokyo in the aftermath of March 2011’s devastating earthquakes.

Split into four sub-sections, My Pop Madonna was divided by four anthems, fittingly Madonna’s Like A Prayer opened the show, Amy Winehouse’s Back To Black and Rihanna’s Only Girl came next with Lady Gaga’s Born This Way making for a great finale packed with attitude.

I think what I love most about this collection is twofold. Firstly, the repetition of the iconic Virgin Mary iconography is inspired, and I also love the printed raincoats and pleated balloon skirts which had been laminated with a thin plastic, to make them both waterproof and super shiny.

LFW diary SS12: FAD

2011-10-18T12:00:00.000+01:00

Each season (AW10, SS11) the primary highlight of my LFW isn’t the ultra glamorous shows, the press lounge or after parties, instead it’s the FAD show which usually always takes places at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the last day of the women’s schedule. With SS12 being no different, creative charity FAD put on a corker of a show with all of the 25 talented teenagers from London and Manchester, putting on a great display of youth talent.

2011 FAD JUNIOR AWARDS Winner_Sabine Bindere

Now in its seventh year, the Fashion Futures initiative aims to provide teenagers with a realistic insight into what it means to work in the creative industries. FAD encourages hands on experience and uses fashion as a tool to develop vocational and professional skills, helping disengaged teenagers get on track in both their professional and personal lives.
Unfortunately there can only be one winner. Originally selected from 100 young people who participated in FAD’s Fashion Futures 2 workshops earlier this year, the 25 finalists spent a week at the FAD Summer School, held at the University of East London. Supported by a team of tutors and student mentors, the 16 – 19 year olds had only 5 days in which to construct their designs for the catwalk final.

At last month’s show and award presentation 17-year-old Sabine Bindere, from Barking + Dagenham College earned the top accolade. Praised by the industry judging panel for its edgy wearability, Sabine’s double hooded dress featured a unique graffiti paint print created by the designer herself, earning her a two week design placement with FAD retail partner George at Asda.

2011 FAD JUNIOR AWARDS Runner-up_Yasemin Cakli

Runner-up, and winner of a two week placement with Marks + Spencer, was 17-year-old Yasemin Cakli from City + Islington College for her fluoro orange jumpsuit and print trimmed plastic cape. Two additional awards were also presented on the evening to Gemma Halliwell, 17, from Bury College (Manchester) for Commercial Design and Francesca Espinosa-Baster, 18 from St.Philomena’s Catholic School for Girls (South London) for Innovative Design + Cut.

LFW Diary SS12: David Longshaw

2011-10-17T16:00:00.001+01:00

David Longshaw is a designer I adore. Bursting with quirky stories and illustrations, each season’s theme is inspired by a short story with this season’s being Father Said...

“For this season I’ve written a story called Father Said about a girl who takes her boyfriend on a fateful seaside trip. As well as creating the story and illustrations, I’m also working on a short animation of the story depicting the main protagonist, Sophie wearing pieces from the new collection. Father Said starts off with all going well. Sophie takes her boyfriend on her trip to the seaside…”

“The sun is shining, they have fish and chips and walk on the beach then they spot the chance to row to Puffin Island. With all the talk of puffins, as she rows, Sophie suddenly has a flashback to a nightmare she had after reading a sweet book her boyfriend had given her, about a puffin with a disproportionate head, with one eye big and one eye small. She suddenly lashes out with the oars in hand and smashes her boyfriend over the head with one. The blow is fatal… so as all rational people do, she rows to shore and buries him – planting flowers over where he lays. For the rest of her life she plans to wear a flower each day in his memory.”

Deftly utilising collaborator Kirsty Ward’s chunky statement jewellery to great effect, Longshaw has also teamed up with milliner Katherine Lee this season on a special show piece. Walking a perfect line between tough and whimsical, Longshaw’s beautiful and characterful illustrations no doubt offer his customers individuality and empowerment in equal measures.

LFW Diary SS12: Kirsty Ward

2011-10-13T12:00:00.001+01:00

A designer I met last season at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Kirsty Ward’s exhibition space at Somerset House in September was neatly tucked towards the end of the main exhibition at an adjacent stand to her boyfriend’s, David Longshaw.

Reworking and building upon her full debut collection, SS12 sees Ward explore her fascination with sheer fabrics further, incorporating more of her eye-catching jewellery directly into her designs as rather weighty embellishments.

Working with neon and neoprene, the collection features suspended layers of blue organza cut-out and joined with delicate brass chains, a plethora of metal hooks and rivets galore. Incorporating body-con lingerie into her repertoire for the inaugural time (in collaboration with underwear label Mint Siren), Ward’s SS12 offering evokes a sensual mood and silhouette harking back to the 1960s.

Combining the aesthetics of sport and luxury, Ward’s beautiful garments are definitely on the experimental side, in the sense that there is no way you can blend into the crowd in one of her quirky signature designs.

Collaborating with Swarovski, larger-than-life necklaces feature heavily as do a multitude of coloured chains casually draped over cotton dresses and sheer tops.

Art-iculate: Adam Neate at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms

2011-10-12T12:00:00.036+01:00

Adam Neate is one of my favourite artists for so many reasons that rather uncharacteristically are hard to put into words. I guess in short, he makes the kind of art that I could see myself making if I’d stuck with it and was actually any good. It’s fun, textured, witty, accessible and there is a tremendous amount of skill and innovativeness present in every piece.

Having stumbled upon his previous exhibition at the Elms Lesters Painting Rooms back in 2009, I dropped by again last weekend to view the new exhibition, Dimensional Paintings.

Almost worried that he wouldn’t surpass my enlightenment after leaving his last exhibition, I’m relieved to say that Dimensional Paintings was just as poignant, seeing me stare at each work for a good five minutes, snapping away, moving on to the next to let other people look and then sneaking back to stare some more.

Now 33, self-taught Neate is a great ambassador for British art, with this solo exhibition running until the end of the month, coinciding with the Frieze Art Fair which opens to the public on tomorrow.

Comprised primarily of self-portraits, narrative compositions also feature heavily interweaving a plethora of mixed media including acrylic, metal, Perspex, and even a tie in one artwork.

Blown away by the colour, textures, angles and possibilities, this is the exhibition of one of the most genuinely gifted artists I’ve followed for a while and I love how cleverly the aesthetics mix different periods, such as cubism, pop and surrealism, all in a particular Neate blend.

“I wanted to drag what is perceived as painting forward to compete with the modern day barrage of visual media. As a society we are exposed to more and more visual imagery. In ten minutes on the internet a person can browse an entire world of images and instantly disregard images that hold no interest to them by the click of a button. During the past year I’ve taken my son to the cinema six times, to see six 3D films. His generation will grow up with an extra dimension in visual media – this language will be seen as the norm. I asked myself how can painting compete with this? With the ‘new’ painting the viewer will be able to walk around it; light, time and space will affect/ react with it. The new painting will exist! More than just depict.” Adam Neate

LFW Diary SS12: Zoë Jordan

2011-10-11T12:00:00.003+01:00

For the first time, this season I got to see first-hand the beauty and grace that go into a Zoë Jordan collection. Luckily for me the theme for SS12 was right up my street, making this one of my favourite catwalks of the season. Produced by My Beautiful Fashion and held in the Old Sorting Office, models sashayed down the catwalk in a beautiful array of underrated and glamorous looks, straight from a 1930s novel.

Honing the laid-back elegance of the era, an atmosphere of glamour was palpable juxtaposed with pared down interwar aesthetics. Think dark smoking clubs and speakeasies, punting and lawn cricket.
With garments wittily named after English country estates such as Althorp, Chatsworth and Blenheim I really loved the grandeur and allure of the romantic garments displayed.

Playing homage to Edith Boverie Beale also known as ‘Little Edie’ in Grey Gardens, the overall look is ‘society girl with an unusual twist’. Styled to perfection by Karen Clarkson, the looks were kooky in a heritage kind of way, with lots of sunglasses (made by Andy Wolf for Zoë Jordan), printed headscarves and delightful layered combinations.

In my mind’s eye, models were reminiscent of Jordan Baker, a golf player in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Great Gatsby, where curly hair ruled the day and cashmere cable knits casually slung over shoulders were de rigueur.

With a beautiful new print created especially for SS12, signature garments featured dramatic dragonflies in neon hues. Luxurious tones such as cream, gold, coral, olive and dusty pink dominated, insinuating hazy summer nights.

Overtly feminine as you’d expect from the 1930s, silhouettes are classically tailored, seeing flowing silk and chiffon shirts teamed with wardrobe staples such as the Hardwick tweed jacket, a Jordan signature smoking jacket and cute cropped Bantry shorts. Sexy and figure-hugging shift dresses will be best-sellers as will the plethora of antique lace tea dresses and smocks.

Romantic, ethereal and very much on my SS12 wardrobe wish list!

LFW Diary SS12: Jacob Kimmie

2011-10-10T13:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Jacob Kimmie

2011-10-10T12:00:00.016+01:00

A designer whose work I first came across while at Amelia’s Magazine is that of South African born Jacob Kimmie whom I interviewed just before his AW10 show. Theming his heavily monochrome collection on Rhapsody for SS12, sheer silks and chiffons dominated.

“A Catholic girl on her way to Catechism, a minimalist Baroque modernism, a reformed and simplified extravagance of dress in a world that is changing, a new innocence, an erotic sensuality, a divine inspired purity, the new dark sophistication.”

I particularly liked the final look of the show - a veiled bride carrying a birdcage. Inspired!

LFW Diary SS12: Fred Butler

2011-10-06T20:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Simeon Farrar

2011-10-05T14:21:00.001+01:00

Inspired by the 'Great British summertime in all it's pathetic glory', one of my favourites from the SS12 LFW exhibition has to be Simeon Farrar, who installed a cute and colourful beach hut in the Embankment Galleries of Somerset House. With a keen eye for screen-printing, fine artist Farrar has taken the dreary British summer as his theme using seasonal phrases such as 'raining cats and dogs' as inspiration for his whimsical and pop-esque prints. Updating both classic and iconic prints such as the Kate (Moss) Mouse, Farrar has given his iconic portraits a punk update. Collaborating with umbrella manufacturer Fulton for the inaugural time guests to the hut got to walk away with a sleek limited edition piece, depicting illustrated cats and dogs - super cute!

LFW Diary SS12: Partimi

2011-10-04T12:00:00.000+01:00

A label I look forward to seeing at Estethica each season is Eleanor Dorrien Smith's Partimi, who for SS12 has created some great prints and straw accessories.

LFW Diary SS12: Lu Flux

2011-10-03T14:07:00.001+01:00

Another designer whose eponymous collections I love seeing each and every season (AW10, SS11, AW11) is the mighty Lu Flux. Wittily titled ‘A-Lu-Ha’, Lu’s SS12 offering plays on the expectations of a tropical British summer and the resulting miserable reality. Self-described as an ‘idyllic Polynesian’ collection, it features everything that epitomises a serene summer of fun in paradise. Think rich candy hues, paper parasols and Hawaiian iconography.

Reflecting her chosen theme perfectly, Lu’s collection perfectly mixes cute and flirty summer apron dresses, layered crepe de chine skirts and trademark patchwork tops, deftly juxtaposed with waterproof jackets, and of course the obligatory Hawaiian shirt, with a Flux twist: beautiful laser-cut hibiscus and Tiki-masked warriors dancing around campfires are a mainstay.

As usual colour shines to the fore and Lu’s stand (in collaboration with Earthborn) at the LFW exhibition was an amazing sight, and to top things off nicely there was even a huge cookie. Always playful, always fun and always a pleasure!

LFW Diary SS12: J.JS Lee

2011-10-03T10:00:00.000+01:00

Scrapbook: Blue car

2011-10-02T13:14:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Corrie Nielsen

2011-09-30T14:00:00.002+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Ada Zanditon

2011-09-29T14:01:00.000+01:00

Each and every season (AW10, SS11, AW11) I wax lyrical about how much I love Ada Zanditon and naturally this season is no exception. As anyone who has met the designer will testify, she is one of the nicest designers around, however it is and always will be her brilliant designs that garner the most attention.

“In the fragile seagrass beds of England’s southeast coast, lives the mythical Poseisus. She begins her metamorphic journey towards the distant tropical shores of Haiti as the rumbled call of the Haitian Kanaval drums ripple and swell the ocean tide, drawing in the ornate Seahorse. She finally emerges from the glistening crystal water, her outer skin transformed into a magnificent Kanaval dress as she steps onto the sand in human form.”

Having presented a film showcasing her SS12 collection entitled Poseisus at Somerset House on the inaugural day of LFW, in some ways you could say that this offering is a departure from what one might expect from this innovative brand. Fusing an East London graffiti cool backdrop with a contrasting colour palette of rather wintry charcoals and blacks, the kooky digital presentation created in collaboration with film makers Andrew and William Ho is fun, memorable and is a great example of how Ada’s eponymous brand continually reinvigorates itself, diversifying and growing with each season.

Another ingenious title for SS12, Poseisus explores themes surrounding Poseidon, the Greek God of the sea, and the fantastical Pegasus, the gleaming white winged horse. Anchored solely in mythology, perhaps more than in previous collections, the fairytale and eccentricity of the collection really shines through, not offering clothes to merely dress-up-in, instead a chance to adopt a piece of theatre into your wardrobe.

Also referencing the form of Greek Goddesses and the elegant structured beauty of the two native species of British seahorse; The Spiny Seahorse and The Short Snouted Seahorse, Poseisus yields enchanting and breathtaking results. Highlighting several new shapes that mimic the structural form of the seahorse and the fluidity of its aquatic environment Ada has created structured crisp outerwear and light, fluid, and voluminous dresses alongside pieces that play on the designer’s trademark geometric cuts. Quirkily referencing the shape of the exoskeleton and the elegant fanned dorsal and caudal fins (that seahorses use to propel themselves as they dance through the water), each appear on the garments as crisp cut shapes and ruffled details extruding from sculptural and heavily structured silhouettes.

The showpiece of the collection, the Athena dress fuses contrasting fluid kaleidoscopic prints with three dimensional structured organza detailing and a distinctive voluminous shoulder. Thematically the collection expresses the interconnected global fragility of island coastal environments in linking British coastal life with the strength, resilience and fierce spirit of Haitian Island life. Echoing both British regality and the creative tribal energy of the Haitian Kanaval in the style and ambience of the pieces, the juxtaposition is also achieved through a combination of luxurious fabrics such as Crepe de chine, French chiffon, a mixture of organic fair-trade materials; cotton shirting, crossweave, denim and jersey. End of the line up-cycled Cumbrian linton tweed and vegetable tanned leather complete the designs and further qualify Zanditon as one of the most prolific S&E designers of her generation.

LFW Diary SS12: Noel Stewart

2011-09-28T15:01:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: J Smith Esq.

2011-09-28T15:00:00.011+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Jena.Theo

2011-09-28T15:00:00.010+01:00

Choosing the darker side of Hollywood as the theme for their SS12 collection, design duo Jena Theo displayed once again how they never fail to entertain and excite. Echoing classic film glamour with a seductive take on mystery, the collection is a heady assault for the senses.

A theme after my own heart, the structure of their sexy silhouettes is inspired by the leading ladies of film noir. In the spirit of The Big Heat, Kiss Me Deadly and Mulholland Drive, the Fatale collection contextualises the allure of the anti-heroine.

With lots of sheer silks, floating backless dresses and exposed breasts, fabrics were fluid and Jena Theo signature prints were back in full force. Hand-painted silks, created in collaboration with artist O. Two enhanced a bright and fresh colour palette consisting of golden yellows, sepia and peach tones.

Juxtaposing colour and fabric tones with loose cuts resulted in the models possessing an ethereal quality as they wafted down the catwalk. A wonderful range of flowing evening dresses mixed with denim, Fatale is the ultimate master class in the art of seduction.

LFW Diary SS12: Charlie Le Mindu

2011-09-28T10:01:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Piers Atkinson

2011-09-28T10:00:00.001+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: H by Harris

2011-09-27T15:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Yang Du

2011-09-27T12:00:00.002+01:00

A designer I thoroughly look forward to seeing during LFW, creates clothes so full of life and bursting with flamboyance that they are the epitome of fun. Yang Du has created yet another of her unique tongue-in-cheek collections inspired by the ‘throws of love’. Entitled Wink Boy, Yang’s SS12 offering features a plethora of eye-catching animals, witty slogans, and ‘cavorting characters’.

Inspired by the street art and architecture of Berlin, expect Yang’s trademark sense of humour, wit and sex appeal. Oversized shapes dominate with hooded embellished jackets created exclusively for the British summer, which I learned after asking the designer why they were on the thick side for SS.

Playful 3-D animals adorn cable-knit cardigans and appear on school-inspired rucksacks, with intricately beaded trinkets given a new lease of life in the form of necklaces and bag charms. True collector’s items in their own right, Yang is like a magpie, pulling together the most exciting of materials with each collection.

At just three years old the Yang Du label goes from strength to strength each season, spearheaded by the designer’s desire to ‘blur the line between art and fashion’.

LFW Diary SS12: VFS

2011-09-27T10:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Izmaylova

2011-09-26T15:00:00.000+01:00

LFW diary SS12: Malene Oddershede Bach

2011-09-26T12:00:00.000+01:00

A designer I came across at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition, I fell in love with the bold and daring colour palette of Malene Oddershede Bach. Presenting an intriguing collection of what appeared to be cell prints; I was really impressed by Malene’s vision and strong brand identity.

Having just launched her label for SS12, as part of VFS’s Ones To Watch, Malene’s collection draws inspiration from the sensation of loss and the feeling of unfulfillment mixed with the psychedelic films of Gaspar Noe and David Cronenberg.

A mixture of vibrant acid hues; ‘dark fuschia, luminous yellow and vivacious turquoise’, a variety or organism inspired prints peppered the collection; the intestines of a mouse and the scales on a butterfly’s wing.

With a plethora of deft techniques under her belt, such as the beautiful two-way pleating of silk georgette, hand-knitting and pieces comprised of more than 25 metres of fabric, Malene’s is possibly the most exciting new brand I discovered at LFW.

With beautiful touches such as embossed leather tags, intricate layering, unusual cuts and bright prints, Malene’s eponymous brand certainly stands out from the crowd. Don't even get me started on the amazing shoes!

LFW Diary SS12: Michelle Lowe-holder

2011-09-26T10:00:00.001+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Solange Azagury-Partridge

2011-09-23T15:00:00.000+01:00

'Daydream' by Sam Taylor-Wood on Vimeo.

LFW Diary SS12: Ada Zanditon

2011-09-23T12:00:00.001+01:00

ADA Zanditon ss12 from Andrew + WIlliam Ho on Vimeo.

LFW Diary SS12: Basso and Brooke

2011-09-23T10:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Michael Birch

2011-09-22T15:00:00.001+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Izmaylova

2011-09-22T12:00:00.002+01:00

Izmaylova's first collection, entitled 'the edge of darkness', launched as a capsule collection for AW11, and their recent offering is just as mesmersing. Design duo Nathanael Gam and Antonina Izmaylova(pictured below), filtered the catwalk with luxurious and flowing silk, hand embellished with Swarovski crystals and other details. Focusing on a faultless silhouette, sharp hip panelling and structured corsetry ruled the day, embracing the natural curves of the female form. Inspired by the warmth, colour and romaticism of Hawaii, Gam stated 'the natural landscape of the island and the striking colour sprectrum that was surrounding us, felt like an invigorating and refreshing release'. The Izmaylova express is firmly in town and this popular design duo are certainly getting their young label noticed in all the right places.

LFW Diary SS12: Dr Noki

2011-09-22T10:00:00.000+01:00

I particularly loved Dr Noki's oversized business card so people could snap it!

LFW Diary SS12: Helen Bullock

2011-09-21T15:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Edward Finney

2011-09-21T12:00:00.004+01:00

Drawing inspiration from the 1920s-30s expatriate settlements in Africa, Edward Finney's SS12 offering has the flamboyance and character that I've come to expect from the designer's eponymous brand.

Following the tale of femme-fatale Alice de Janzé, descriptive of the Roaring Twenties, Central St Martins graduate Finney re-creates fusion of tribal strength and classical style, with a modern twist indicative of his signature aesthetic.

LFW Diary SS12: Christopher Raeburn

2011-09-21T10:00:00.002+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Stephanie Grace Foy

2011-09-20T15:00:00.001+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Paul Costelloe

2011-09-20T12:00:00.000+01:00

For the inaugural time I attended the first show on schedule at SS12 LFW: Paul Costelloe. A designer I’ve always admired from afar, Costelloe lived up to all my expectations and more. With the photographers vying for the best spot and yelping as the lights went down, the frisson of excitement was electric.

Using the 1962 film What Ever Happened To Baby Jane? as his inspiration, silhouettes were unashamedly 60s. Look after look, voluminous dresses, tunics and skirts were on the money, insinuating a loose hippy and carefree vibe – perfect for those who want to disguise a multitude of sins.

Beginning with a classic and timeless colour palette of stone, grey, beige and cream dozens of looks epitomised Costelloe’s trademark vintage Parisian chic aesthetic. Short flirtatious dresses in a variety of frilly silks, linens and cottons skimmed the bum cheeks and are certainly marketed at only the very brave.

With crushed silk, brocades and pastel tablecloth-style fabrics, the collection clicked into first gear towards the end, with a taste of Arabia coming through in rose and mint shades. Military pleats and superior hand-detailing stole the show, with a mixture of dapper male models (some in pink linen overcoats) adding a certain je ne sais quoi to the proceedings. To sum up, I’d describe the SS12 offering as luxurious, with a touch of ‘New Romantic frivolity’.

LFW Diary SS12: Jungeun Lee

2011-09-20T10:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: J. W. Anderson

2011-09-19T15:00:00.001+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Corrie Nielsen

2011-09-19T12:00:00.002+01:00

All photographs courtesy of Christopher Dadey

Produced by My Beautiful Fashion and held in the Old Sorting Office in New Oxford Street, Corrie Nielsen's show held all the drama and suspense of theatre. With haunting music and a slightly Oriental sound, Neilsen dipped into a dark Victorian mood for SS12, playing on duplicity by pulling the collection into modernity and incorporating a present day Japanese twist. Entitled ‘Arbiter Elegantiarum’; a judge on authority in matters of taste, Nielsen's models walked super slowly down the catwalk as if under some sort of spell.

One of my favourites, Oscar Wilde's gothic novel, The Picture Of Dorian Gray serves as inspiration with the designer exploring abstract concepts of influence, embracing the late 19th Century men's tailored dress, deftly fusing it with a contemporary Japanese aesthetic demonstrated most notably in kimono-style wrap jackets.

Staying true to her signature brand aesthetic, SS12 demonstrated Nielsen's grand folded structures and meticulous pleating creating an expanse of architectural shapes executed in great swathes of sumptuous fabric. With origami-style pleating on the back and sleeves of form fitting jackets, there were many wearable pieces peppered throughout the collection. Fragments of fresh chartreuse are scattered throughout the restrained colour palette mixed with whites and creams. Furthering the drama of the collection, shoes by United Nude created yet another layer of mystery.

Displaying an altogether well considered, superbly designed and perfectly finished collection it is hard to believe that this is only Nielsen's second collection, proving that she is most certainly one to watch each and every season. I certainly can't wait for the next instalment of Nielsen's fashion theatre.

LFW Diary SS12: NEWGEN

2011-09-19T10:00:00.002+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: James Long

2011-09-18T15:00:00.004+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Nasir Mazhar

2011-09-18T12:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Michael Lewis

2011-09-18T10:00:00.001+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: ùna Burke

2011-09-17T15:00:00.000+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Ada Zanditon

2011-09-17T12:00:00.001+01:00

LFW Diary SS12: Orla Kiely

2011-09-17T10:00:00.001+01:00

LCF launch SHOP

2011-09-16T21:24:00.000+01:00

Necklace by Michela Carraro

Shoes by Xia Xiao

Peter Pan collar by Emma Hamshare

Lasercut leather shawl by Natalie Brown

Last week I was thrilled to be invited down to the launch of the LCF pop-up space in central London’s Kingly Court, quirkily and simply titled SHOP. The first ever retail venture of the illustrious fashion university, the SHOP will be open until 28th September. Stocking exclusive and one-off creations by the soon-to-be and internationally famous alumni, the labels on the racks were rather surreal in that they reminded me of a top independent boutique – credit to LCF’s superior teaching and knack for mentoring some of British fashion’s brightest young things, and those of the future.

Artwork by Cecelia Ku

Shoes by Aase Hopstock

When myself and two fellow bloggers arrived, the space was sparkling, and funnily, smelt of paint fumes, but in the good way where you get a slightly pleasant head rush and enjoy the newness of a pristine white space. Too many great designers are stocked to mention them all: the ever-lovely Ada Zanditon was giving an interview while we perused – William Tempest, Beatrice Boyle and Hasan Hejazi, to name but a few.

Pleating by Ewa Kajana

Xia Xiao / Michela Carraro

Laid out rather like a gallery space, student illustrations give the walls some creative impact, while shelves are dotted around cleverly enabling you to walk around them giving two angles to each product. Much like series of art works, each design sold in the SHOP has a unique item number and is signed by the designer and also comes with a statement of authenticity (this reminds me slightly of the concept of Tracey Emin’s bonds – kinda.

With special events running throughout the month, celebrities vying to get involved and surprisingly reasonable prices (SHOP canvas print bag £10, free with purchases over £50; many items are between £100-£250, with prices starting at £20 for student work).

Aldo launch 'shoes for life'

2011-09-14T20:52:00.001+01:00

Shot by the legendary Terry Richardson, Aldo's Shoes for life competition/ campaign features the beautiful Lily Donalson. Check out the campaign...

Fashion Night Out: Superdry

2011-09-09T20:16:00.000+01:00

Last night I partook in my first Fashion Night Out and popped down to the Superdry store to peruse the new SS12 footwear collection. Having not visited the Thomas Neal Centre for a while, it was impressive to see how Superdry have invaded the retail space, demonstrating what I’ve been reading in the business section of the broadsheets over the past few months; stock is up and the retail expansion is going full-steam ahead.

With some fantastic launches planned for next year including their Regent Street superstore, an expansion of accessories and the introduction of a ladies perfume, one of the most intriguing stories will be the new-look footwear. Expect sleek silhouettes, light-weight fabrics, superior design and a plethora of colour. For those who always need a bit of height – watch the space for the Superdry heels.

Scrapbook: Big Jimmy

2011-09-05T12:00:00.000+01:00

Dr. Jimmy Cliff at the IndigO2

2011-09-04T16:55:00.002+01:00

Last night I was extremely excited to be offered tickets to see the legend that is Dr. Jimmy Cliff. A musician I grew up listening to with my sister - who accompanied me to the gig for what was her third time – Dr. Cliff is never someone I imagined I’d be fortunate enough to see.

With an AMAZING band, Cliff was energy personified wining and strutting across the stage, jumping and doing running dances with great fervour whilst singing pitch perfect notes. Opening the show with You Can Get It If You Really Want, Cliff’s rich and soulful voice is as thick as it is on his records, proving that he is a force to be reckoned with – live!
A singer, songwriter, musician and actor far from his 63 years, Cliff was in great spirits and was dressed in a red jacket and Jamaican flag scarf – as is his trademark stage uniform. Sticking true to his protesting guns, Cliff dedicated Treat The Youths Right to the recent riots in London. For a time it wasn’t quite clear whose side (if any) Cliff was on; the rioters or justice. However with the lyrics; “Treat the youths right instead of putting up a fight. Treat the youths right or you'll been playin' with dynamite”, there was no doubt that he wants to see youth empowerment.
With an electric atmosphere filling the intimate IndigO2, the crowd were eager to get the party started enjoying the DJs before the show. Scheduled to come on at 9 pm, Cliff surprised us all by coming onto the stage five minutes early – a punctuality unheard of in live music.
Uplifting the crowd with anthems such as The Harder They Come, I Can See Clearly Now, Vietnam and Sitting In Limbo, I had a great time. ultimate favourite tracks were Many Rivers To Cross; which was as superb as I’d imagined and the meditative Rivers Of Babylon; which was simply mesmerising – holding a special place in my heart as this was the first song I learnt to play on the keyboard.
With out-of-this world backing vocals, the Cliff classics really came to life aided by beautiful trumpet and saxophone playing. The drummers were also amazing and on several occasions Cliff picked up a guitar and sat at his own drums, giving the crowd some strong reggae beats to move our hips to.

A cross-section that I’ve not seen at any other gig to date, there were fans of all nationalities and ages united by a love of reggae. Teasing the eager crowd with several encores; the first of which had us chanting “Just One More”, Cliff re-emerged with Wonderful People, Beautiful World leaving us all on a musical high.

Next up at the IndigO2 is Grammy-nominated, Soul and R+B star Charlie Wilson of 80s group The Gap Band on 16th September. Having collaborated with artists from Kanye West and R. Kelly to Jamie Foxx and Justin Timberlake, expect to hear hits such as Oops Upside Your Head, Party Train, Yearning For Your Love and Outstanding.

Brand Of The Week: BLITZ

2011-09-02T16:45:00.001+01:00

Last night I was invited to Hanbury Street, East London to attend the press preview night for a new concept to vintage; a sprawling department store. A thriving destination and hub in its own right, BLITZ is a huge five-room Victorian warehouse which has been updated to neatly house a plethora of products.

Like a kid in a candy store I fell in love and wanted to purchase everything in sight, from an abundance of 1940s furniture and homeware supplied by Broadway Market's Dog and Wardrobe, to the busting-at –the-seams vintage fashion crammed downstairs, supplied by John and Jan.

Filled with a treasure trove of cabinets, chests and luggage, the decor was spot on in terms of using the space to their biggest advantage, with furniture on sale used to bolster and display clothing and accessories. Stocking everything from bikes and cute little handbags to movie posters and men’s brogues, BLITZ also boasts a superior collection of cigarette machines, which caught my eye.

With old red velvet cinema seats providing perfect places to rest weary bottoms after trying on too many garments, there were also several church-style pews dotted around for those who prefer something a bit sturdier.

Highlights include an in-house record store, books store, and coffee shop (which makes the strongest espressos – so I’m told – from what look to be 1960s machines), BLITZ is the perfect place to lose yourself of an afternoon.

Blitz, Hanbury Street E1 5JP.